I would highly recommend that history buffs or anybody even remotely interested in watches, read the book, Longitude by Dava Sobel. It is a tremendous story and gives the reader real perspective on how accurate timekeeping solved a seemingly insurmountable timekeeping and navigational problem.
 
Consider this, early global navigators such as Sir Francis Drake, Christopher Columbus and Vasco da Gama, all had no reliable means of confirming their locations at sea. Lack of reliable information meant ships carrying valuable cargo for the crowns of Italy, England, France and Portugal experienced countless shipwrecks and lost important cargo.
 
The challenge was that to determine your position at sea, you needed to know your latitude and your longitude. As author Dava Sobel, succinctly explains in the book, latitude was rather easy to determine, longitude was not. The rings of latitude started at the Equator (zero degrees) and ran parallel up to the north and south poles. The Equator was determined to be the starting point for latitude as the planets, moon and sun would pass almost directly overhead. Ok fine, but what about longitude, why was this calculation so difficult? Well to make this calculation, the ship’s captain would need 2 pieces of information; the accurate time aboard the ship and the time at the home port. While this sounds rather simple today, consider the challenges of day, timekeeping was neither that accurate or portable in the 16th and 17th centuries.
 
The book Longitude does a great job of explaining the following, but here goes my lesser attempt; the Earth rotates 360 degrees every 24 hours and 1 hour represents 1/24th of the rotation or 15 degrees. Think about it……if 1 hour is 15 degrees then at the Equator where the earth is the widest, 15 degrees is equal to 1000 miles and 1 degree of longitude equals 4 minutes of time. Ship navigators tried everything; pendulum clocks, charts and compasses to the famous astronomers of the day and their attempts at solving the problems using celestial calcuations (not much help when it was cloudy). Ships ran off course, became ship wrecked and lives and valuable cargo was lost.
 
It wasn’t until 1714, when the British Parliament established a huge cash reward for anybody who helped solve the problem of longitude calculation. It was the single minded focus of a carpenter, John Harrison, who spent 25 years of his life inventing a solution small enough and accurate enough to solve this problem. His various clocks, called the H1, H2 and H3 represented his never ending quest to solve the problem.
 
Dava Sobel’s captivating look at this man’s life and his dedication to accurate timekeeping while being shunned and mocked by the scholars of the day, will make every collector admire their watch with a new found love & apprecation.
 
Lawrence Kosick, May 30, 2006
 
Longitude is also a popular A&E movie for those wanting to rent instead of read.
 

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Some people are of the opinion that Roger Dubuis  produces watches that are more about fashion than fine watchmaking .  I respectfully beg to differ.  Regardless of whether you find their bold, expressive style fabulously beautiful, or overwhelmingly flamboyant, one simply must admire the horological acheivements of the brand born in 1995 through the joint efforts of Roger Dubuis–the highly respected former watchmaker for Patek Philippe –and Carlos Dias, a watch connoisseur and entrepeneur.  In a very short time span, Roger Dubuis has managed to accomplish, on a horological level, amazing things fully on par with the most famous and historically significant houses which have existed for one hundred years or more. The fact that they do this in a fresh and fashionable way sets their offerings apart from everything else on the market.

    From the beginning, the company made the decision to place a special emphasis on execution—the fine detail that separates a great and artistic watch from one that is merely very good.   Every aspect, from the finish of the case in its myriad subtleties, to the polish and construction of the movements components, was approached in a way that put emphasis on and at the same time paid tribute to the great classical Genevan traditions, as well as the perpetuation of technical specialties such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters.    I’ve had the chance to handle quite a few watches, and yet, when I get to see a new example from Roger Dubuis, be it basic or complicated, I can always find something new to get excited about—the synthesis of the whole is spectacularly striking with this brand.

   Case in point:  Just this last week, I had the chance to play with the new Golden Square skeleton tourbillon ; this particular example was in titanium, a first for Roger Dubuis in that metal.   Aside from the impressive dimensions of the Golden Square design, the company further dared to make this casing in a very modern and extremely lightweight material, rather than the more expected and traditional gold or platinum.  Pushing the envelope even further, this particular tourbillon has a beautiful skeleton movement, revealing the delicacy of the hand engraved bridges, and laying open the fascinating motion of the one-minute tourbillon.  The impeccably finished titanium casing was most attractive in its deep grey color, and the feathery weight made it seem to float on the wrist, despite the generous size.  In fact, this watch could possibly be dubbed the “Air Tourbillon” as its open-worked movement combined with the titanium casing makes for a watch that is so comfortable you can almost forget that it is on your wrist.  Yet, this is hardly a superficial or forgettable watch—it’s visual appeal and presence is exceptionally strong, with the love for detail that is a special hallmark of Roger Dubuis.

     I’ll put forth one last tidbit of food for thought:  When a noted watchmaking house introduces a new manufacture movement, the watch press goes crazy with adulation.  This is understandable, as the infrastructure required to produce a movement in-house is intensive and extremely challenging, well deserving of immense respect.  Imagine then, a house which introduces six—-SIX—new movements in one year!  Well, Roger Dubuis has done that this year, and that is nothing short of a tour-de-force!  The new calibers, several of them extremely complicated, join the rest of the Roger Dubuis movements, all of which are produced in the company’s own factory; it must be noted that all of the Dubuis movements are hallmarked with the prestigious Seal of Geneva , testifying to their traditional level of finish and construction as specified by the long established guidelines of the Canton of Geneva for watches of the highest echelon.   Among Genevan producers of high watchmaking, Roger Dubuis remains the only manufacturer, along with Patek Philippe, who insist that every single one of their movements be able to obtain this traditional honor. 

    Yes, by comparison to the first pieces the company introduced, the contemporary offerings are quite grandiose in size, as suits the current demand for large watches, as well as the expressive design aesthetic of company owner Carlos Dias.  But, at the same time, we have a watch firm not even 15 years old who has not only produced a dizzying array of the high complications, but has managed to ultimately achieve this on a completely independent, manufacture basis.  All of this is accompanied by an obsession with traditional watchmaking quality that has been unwavering from the very beginning, shepherded by the intimate and continued involvement of a watchmaker considered a living legend amongst his peers.

So please, how again is Roger Dubuis just a fashion watch?  

-Adam Keith

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I know I mentioned in an earlier post that our president King George II has been known
to wear a Franck Muller . After that post, I started to think about what watches other
presidents have worn.

I remember specifically the Timex Ironman Bill Clinton wore while in office, but 6
months after he left office, he was on the cover or Time magazine wearing a Roger
Dubuis. I have heard from folks in the industry that Clinton is a bit of a collector. Word is
he owns a few Roger Dubuis as well as a Panerai.

When King George I launched the first gulf war, he was wearing a Patek Phillipe, but by
far the most popular presidential watch was the Corum $20 gold coin watch which was
worn by Ronald Reagan, Harry Truman and Lyndon Johnson who actively wore them
while they were in office. I also read somewhere that all US presidents were gifted Revue
Thommen watches when they were in office. Whether or not they wore them is
another story. Johnson apparently also was known to wear a Rolex President watch.
He wasn’t the only US president who was a Rolex man. President Eisenhower was
also known to wear a Rolex Day-Date.

Some of the world leaders our presidents have met with are also watch lovers.
Vladimir Putin isn’t messing around when he throws on a Patek Perpetual Calendar
watch. The new prime minister of Israel Ehud Olmert has a more youthful timepiece.
He was recently photographed wearing a Breitling Aerospace Advantage .

It’s always interesting to find out what watches political powerhouses are wearing
while they are in office. I feel it gives you some deeper insight into their personality.
Of course it’s all open to your own interpretation.

More next week,

Paul Morillo

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Pink gemstones have been in vogue ever since  Ben Affleck proposed to Jennifer Lopez  in 2002 with a 6 carat pink diamond.  Even though the Hollywood power couple’s romance didn’t quite stand the test of time, the fad they kicked off is still in full swing.  It seems like everyone wants a pink diamond.

Pink gemstones are a classic expression of feminine fashion.  Unfortunately, the high price tag for natural pink diamonds precludes many people from even considering a purchase.  If you’re not up on pricing for natural fancy pink diamonds, let me tell you that they generally cost in the tens of thousands per carat and sometimes even hundreds of thousands per carat!

However, there are some less expensive alternatives.  One such alternative is to purchase a color treated diamond.  These come in a few variations from natural “color enhanced” diamonds to synthetic versions.  Another popular alternative is to purchase pink sapphire jewelry.  Natural sapphire material is available with a deep and intense pink color. A Pink sapphire  is much less expensive than natural pink diamond, and generally, pink sapphires will have a much more vibrant pink color than a pink diamond.

We all know that diamond is the hardest natural substance known to man, which makes it perfect for everyday bridal jewelry.  However, you should note that Sapphire is the next hardest natural gemstone, having an 8.5 rating on the Mohs hardness scale.  Because of this, sapphire is also appropriate for everyday bridal jewelry.  Other natural pink gemstones such as tourmaline and rose quartz are softer material which are more likely to scratch, chip or crack with regular wear.

Whatever your budget may be, there is sure to be an appropriate pink gemstone for your jewelry collection.

Technorati Tags: Pink gemstones,  Ben Affleck, Jennifer Lopez, pink diamond, pink diamond, natural pink diamonds, Pink sapphire, bridal jewelry

With my second installment from our frequently asked questions from http://www.lussori.com/ I would like to address another issue that comes up quite often;
�=�-�How much is my vintage timepiece worth?�-?

There are many reasons we are asked this question. Some of the timepieces are inherited. Some are gifts. Some are great finds at pawnshops. To be honest with you, it is not a question that is easily answered online for a couple of reasons. First, Lussori does not specialize in vintage watches. While some of our watch experts have some experience with pre-owned timepieces, vintage watches is a field of expertise that is quite different from contemporary pre-owned watches. Second, estimation of value is something that needs to be done in person. In order to give an accurate valuation, an appraiser must be able to look at more than just pictures of a timepiece.

�=Your best bet at determining value is going to be to find a local appraiser experienced with vintage timepieces. If you do not have someone local, you may want to contact an organization like the American Society of Appraisers. They should be able to direct you to a qualified individual in your area. You can also contact one of the major auction houses such as Christie�-?s or Sotheby�-?s. Another good resource can be the online watch forums like WatchUSeek and Time Zone. You may need to register but once that is done you can post questions on the appropriate forum. �=

Just remember, that despite what the actual monetary value of your timepiece, you are holding a piece of watchmaking and personal history that can still be enjoyed for many years to come.�=

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Hi Folks,

I was looking through some sites and found that some royalty seem to have been bitten by the watch collecting  bug, as a lot of us have.

When it comes to royalty wearing watches, out the gate, we have to tip our hats to the folks at Breguet .

Their watches have been worn by such significant individuals as Queen Victoria and Marie Antoinette who both happened to owned quite a few Breguet timepieces. While Marie Antoinette seemed to stick to Breguet, Queen Victoria wasn’t a one house girl. She is also known to have flirted with the house of Patek Phillipe from time to time. Napoleon, like Marie Antoinette, loved Breguet and traveled with at least 3 when he was on his Egyptian campaign.

For the newshounds of today, you will probably notice that Omega has been in the news lately. Last year, Prince William was spotted wearing an Omega Seamaster . His mother the late Princess Diana wore a ladies Cartier watch, which I read is one of Prince William’s prize possessions.

When it comes to watches, there defiantly isn’t a preferred watch house for the house of Windsor. The Queen owns at least one watch from Vacheron & Constantin and her son Prince Charles has also been know to wear Chopard . Partly responsible might be that Chopard created a namesake watch for Prince Charles called the “Prince of Wales” watch with the benefits going to the Prince’s charity called the Prince’s Trust.

As we move south and go back into history, King Chulalongkorn of Thailand was a huge fan of Vasheron and ordered several pieces just before the turn of the 20th century.

Recently At a charity auction for tsunami victims an Omega Speedmaster was auctioned off. This watch was special because it was signed by Michael Shumacher, the famous American car racer. Who was the the lucky winner and how much did he/spend?

The watch was won by none other then the Crown Prince of Quatar. How much did he spend on his new timepiece? 1.5 million dollars. That had to be the worlds most expensive Speedmaster….

By the way, if you know of a royal who is a watch junkie, write in and let me know. I love to see the contributions.

More next week,

Paul

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A beautiful watch is all about details.  I am reminded of this each and every time I pull a new watch from it’s box, or unbuckle one of my own cherished timepieces.  As silly as it sounds, I catch myself frequently staring at the smooth, distinct beat of a second hand, or observing the subtle play of light on the metal surfaces of a finely wrought watch case.  The obsession only grows when I flip the watch over, and am able to examine through a glass back the fine work done by skilled and obsessive watchmakers who care far more about perfection than most of us ever will.  Interestingly, in the old days, fine movements were hidden behind solid backs; watchmakers considered the display of their craft almost vulgar—-it was enough that he or she who built the watch knew.   That fact is truly amazing—-the ultimate loving toil was extended to things only a watchmaker would ever see. 
 
I am blessed to own two watches that I find epitomize the detail that I find so fascinating about watchmaking art.  The first  is the Royal Oak  ref. 15300 by Audemars Piguet .  I can spend minutes without end just turning this watch in my hand, examining the interaction of light between the various expertly faceted surfaces on case and bracelet.   It is difficult to understand the mesmerizing quality of a Royal Oak watch until one has a chance to handle it, and then, understanding comes very easily.  The craftsmanship is simply remarkable.  But that is only half of this watch; visible through the back is Audemars Piguet’s manufacture caliber 3120.  Louping it reveals a modern movement construction that benefits from the love and tradition of the traditional watch knowledge passed down from generation to generation in Le Brassus.  A tangible reminder of the great history of this House is embodied in the beautiful solid gold rotor, which features the finely rendered family crests of the Audemars and Piguet families.
 
In the case of my Chopard L.U.C.  ”Twist“, I just can’t stop obsessing over the movement inside.  Having followed the story of Chopard’s manufacture movements since the 1990’s, I simply could not pass up the opportunity to own a watch with the caliber 1.96.  In fact, I sacrificed a  Patek Philippe  ref. 5107 I had worn for several years to get the Chopard, an act some would lament as heresy, but I know better.  The 1.96 remains to this day, probably the most lavishly decorated movement I have yet to see in a production watch without high complications.  Both the 315 Caliber movement in my Patek, and the 1.96 in the rival Chopard bore the prestigious Geneva Seal, and while the 315 was undeniably very fine, the 1.96 simply surpassed it in my eyes.  Polish on the edges of the bridges was immaculate and even more luxurious than it’s competitor; jewels settings glittered with a fine polish and the black polished steel of the swan neck had me transfixed.    The finisher was the comparison of the winding masses; while the 21-k gold rotor of the Patek, bearing the Calatrava cross was aristocratically beautiful and spoke of great acheivements, the 22-K microrotor of the Chopard, with it’s polish and immaculate flowing decoration had an indescribable charm and playful flourish that made me smile.  It still does.
 
Reading back over the last few paragraphs, I have to chuckle a bit.  Maybe non-watch people are right when they shake their head at the craziness of those of us who obsess over expensive watches.  For those readers who are watch-obsessed, what I have described will ring all too familiar.  For those who are doing the head-shaking, I applaud you for your patience in dealing with the rest of us, and hope you have gained a bit of insight into the perspective of a “watch idiot savant”. 

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Every week I speak with a hand-full of customers about  custom jewelry  requests, and inevitably, each conversation includes some discussion of platinum .  Platinum is one of the most expensive precious metals , and it is extremely desirable.  However, it is good to be aware of the particular properties of this metal, and when its use is appropriate.

Platinum is the ultimate luxury metal, and in general, it is about twice as expensive as 18k gold.  Platinum is a very pure metal with most good alloys containing about 95% pure platinum.  In contrast, 14k gold contains 58.5% pure gold, and 18k gold contains 75% pure gold.  Virtually all white gold jewelry  items are plated with a super-white metal called rhodium in order to make them appear white.  In truth, all white gold alloys look “yellow” to some degree due to their gold content.  Eventually, rhodium platinum will wear off of white gold jewelry, and a faint yellow color will be detectable.  Though it is fairly simple and inexpensive to have white gold jewelry re-rhodium plated, platinum is naturally white and requires no plating.

Along with its purity, platinum is extremely durable.  Jewelry designs which contain small and precise detail work such as filigree and/or engraving will maintain their integrity longer when made with platinum.  This is why antique rings made in platinum generally hold their shape and detail better than similar rings made up in 14k or 18k gold.

However, bear in mind that we are talking about half a century or so of wear here!  For most practical purposes, 14k or 18k white gold is sufficient and will hold up almost as well as platinum.  This is especially true for heavy weight pieces.  I usually suggest to our customers that they consider using white gold for most purposes aside from filigree, engraving, or prongs.  It is also important to note that platinum will take to scuffing more quickly than 18k gold.  Many people complain that their  platinum wedding bands  look “dull” after a few months of wear, which is a result of this scuffing.

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In 1993 IWC celebrated its 125th anniversary of innovative watch making in Schaffhausen Switzerland with release of the world’s most complicated wristwatch: the IL Destriero Scafusia .  The Destriero is at once one of the most important contributions to the art of watch making and a tribute to the technical prowess and craftsmanship of the International Watch Company .

In designing the  Destriero , the watchmakers at IWC were set upon the challenge of demonstrating to the world the firm’s rightful claim as a top tier watch manufacture. A relentless pursuit to create the most complicated timepiece in the world resulted in a watch of amazing quality and sophistication. The IL Destriero Scafusia reference 1868, with its massive case size of 42.2mm, instantly became a must have for serious collectors worldwide. It combined a tourbillon escapement with a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a chronograph with split minute function, and a perpetual moon phase indicator. The watch was limited to just 125 pieces and about 10 per year were delivered until 2003. 

The Destriero raised the bar so to speak, it was offered in 22 karat rose gold or platinum with an optional hand made bracelet of 22 karat gold or platinum.  It was not only the rarity of the case material that made the watch special. Its intricately hand decorated mechanical movement Calibre 18680, which was visible through a sapphire case back, comprised of 750 individual parts plus 76 jewels combining to perform 21 functions. The perpetual calendar was designed to run continuously without calibration until the year 2499 displaying the day, date, month, a four digit year, and leap year. The tourbillon escapement was the first to achieve a rate of eight vibrations per second and its cage is constructed of titanium because of its anti-magnetic properties. And the gongs of the minute repeater were painstakingly tuned to chime the hours, quarters, and minutes with an astonishingly beautiful sound.

The IWC IL Destriero Scafusia remains one of the ten most important timepieces ever produced and places the International Watch Company in the exclusive club of the greatest watch manufactures. The Destriero continues to draw the admiration of true wristwatch connoisseurs for its beauty and technical sophistication.  It is also continually ranked as one of the ten most important watches ever produced by the industries most influential magazines. Because of its importance I felt the Destriero was worthy of another look.

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