This week I am seeing a ton of Audemar Piguet’s in the Hollywood scene. A recently Usher was seen sporting an AP Royal Oak while out and about with friends. This may not come as any big surprise as I understand Usher is actually on the AP payroll.

Not on the AP payroll, but one of the biggest AP fans, New Jersey Nets owner, and rap mogul Jay-Z was seen at the beach with his incredibly beautiful girlfriend Beyonce Knowles . They were babysitting Beyonce’s nephew from sister Solange. Beyonce had on an awesome yellow bikini and Jay-Z was sporting Roca-Wear and an Audemar Piguet Royal Oak Offshore . I hear he is a big watch geek and owns an AP Grande Complication.

Also this week, Brandon Davis , the uber-rich oil heir and regular Hilton sister accessory was photograph in Hollywood wearing a AP Royal Oak Offshore as he walked toward his car wearing a tasteless t-shirt (If you want to know what the t-shirt said email me).

Other Audemars Piguet fans are Hollywood superstars such as Tom Cruise who has been know to wear an AP chronograph as well as The Governator Arnold Schwarzenegger whose has his own signature Audemars Piguet T3 watch.

More next week,

-Pauley

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Traditional watchmaking is a craft that has continued for hundreds of years. Originally all movements were manually wound and had to be wound daily to stay on time. There was also the problem of over winding the watch.  After some time watchmakers developed the automatic winding movement to eliminate the need for daily winding and also all but eliminate the accidental over winding of the watch. This kind of workmanship is mostly done by hand. The fitting together of all the gears and pinions to track time is labor intensive. If you also factor in the time to manufacture these tiny parts which can be done partly by machine and partly by hand (greatly magnified) you add to the intensity. Traditional watch making is an art that fewer and fewer are learning as a trade.

Quartz watches became widely popular in the early 1970’s. They are extremely accurate and should be. With a circuit board and a battery precision is practically guaranteed. Some of the most difficult complications in a mechanical watch were recreated in analog and digital/analog formats for a fraction of the cost. For quite some time many of the big traditional watch making companies jumped on the quartz band wagon. But as the novelty of quartz watches wore off, the desire for something really special in a timepiece returned.

As my previous entry recognized, watches are traditionally given to mark special milestones in life. Many people want to mark these events with traditional mechanical watches. Don’t get me wrong. There are many beautiful quartz watches available still. It is a matter of personal preference and what you are looking for in a watch.

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Most of the jewelry on our website is available in all three major variations of 18k and 14k gold  (white, rose and yellow), and oftentimes, it’s not easy deciding which to go with.  Each of these metal types has its unique character and benefits, and it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with the differences.

To begin with, I’d like to first point out the differences between 18k and 14k gold.  18k gold is a slightly more expensive and more prestigious metal  than 14k.  This is due to a couple of factors, the first being that 18k gold has a higher gold content than 14k.  Along with this, 18k gold has a softer and more vibrant natural gold color than 14k.  However, it is important to note that due to the higher gold content, 18k gold is also softer than 14k (though many think that the difference in softness is negligible).

The most popular of the three gold color variations is certainly white gold .  White metals such as platinum , silver and white gold have been in vogue for at least a decade or so now.  One of the bennefits of white metals is that they showcase the natural beauty of diamonds and colored gemstones without adding any color.  So, for example, if you have a particularly nice diamond with an investment quality color grading (D,E or F), a white gold setting will best display the diamond’s dazzling colorless nature.  Another benefit to white gold is that due to its color, it can easily be worn with other white metal jewelry such as platinum or silver jewelry.

Yellow gold  jewelry is an expression of classic elegance, and though it tends to go through periods of relative popularity and disinterest, yellow gold has never truly gone out of style.  Certain people are only comfortable wearing yellow gold, and feel that the color is a good complement to their complexion.  This is often the case with people who have a richer skin tone.  Redheads as well have a tendency to prefer yellow gold.  It’s also good to consider wardrobe in this regard as certain clothes will be better accented by yellow gold.

Rose gold is certainly the most ethereal color in this group, and is particularly sensitive to trends.  Rose gold is an excellent complement to pink gemstones such as pink sapphire and pink diamonds.  Usage of this metal type as a setting for pink stones has the effect of enhancing the stone’s pink color.  Rose gold is also a very distinctive metal color, which is often chosen by people who are looking for something a little out of the ordinary.

Each of these gold types has it’s own particular beauty, and I encourage you to consider them in your jewelry buying decisions.
-Ryan Genone

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  To many laypersons who have begun their fascination with luxury watchmaking , the terms “mechanical watch” and “automatic” are interchangeable.  They eagerly look for a “sweeping” second hand to tell them that the watch is an automatic, and therefore fine or valuable.  That sure described me. Remember the 80’s, when the “reliable” way to verify the authenticity of a Rolex Perpetual was to examine the second hand?  If it swept, well, it had to be genuine, right? Of course, today, automatic-winding movements representing all degrees of luxury are produced in places from Switzerland to Japan, in quality ranging from the cream to the crud.  I want to take a moment to extol the virtues of that most purist of mechanical watches, the kind which must be wound by hand to remain animated. 

Before I begin, don’t get me wrong: automatic-winding mechanical watches are marvelous; some of the great auto-wind movements such as the Patek 240, Audemars/JLC 2120, and the Chopard 1.96 demonstrate both great beauty and sophistication with the added practicality brought about by our arm movements keeping them ticking.  But, hold on a minute…..if we only wanted maximum efficiency for minimum output of effort, might’nt we choose a good ol’ reliable quartz watch, or maybe even our cellular phone, either of which would require no interaction (beyond maybe a mere battery change now and then for the watch) and keep excellent time? 

No, of course not! The devotee of horology chooses the anachronistic mechanical watch because it possesses “soul” and the stamp of its creator.  Which brings me to my point—the manual wind, even more than the automatic, takes this love of the intangible and romantic to its most satisfying conclusion.  It is a delicate machine with which we must daily interact with, in the same way our bodies require nourishment to survive.
 
The list of distinguished horological masterworks which are manually wound is a long one and for brevity’s sake, I offer only a few examples. Consider the magnificent Grande Sonneries of both past and present by Audemars Piguet , or the original Girard Perregaux Three-Bridge Tourbillon.  Or the “Tour de l’Ile” wristwatch from Vacheron Constantin which features 16 complications, including a rotating star map.  Then there’s the Caliber 89 from Patek Philippe , a pocketwatch which combined a mind-boggling 33 complications.  Three of the world’s currently most coveted chronographs– the PanoRetroGraph  from Glashutte Original, the Datograph from A. Lange & Sohne  and the Ref. 5970 from Patek Philippe–are all manually wound, their virtuouso mechanics blessedly free from the distraction a rotor or automatic winding bridge would create for the admiring gaze of their owners.  

IWC’s pinnacle acheivement, the Destriero Scafusia , is also wound by hand. In the day of chronometer competitions, a grand time when various notable manufacturers submitted observatory movements for testing and ranking, painstakingly adjusted manual-winds ruled the day, despite automatic-winders being in production and increasingly gaining the favor of the public.
 
  Independent watchmakers considered the greatest of our age also revere– and often prefer–the purity of the manual winding concept for their individually produced masterpieces.  This roster of genius would include George Daniels, Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and Daniel Roth , to name a few. Of course, exceptions exist with all things, and there are certainly amazing high complications and technical acheivements which utilize automatic winding; the Blancpain 1735, the Astrolabium  from Ulysse Nardin , and the Audemars Piguet Grande Complication  are prime examples.  In general, however, a lions share of historically notable pieces have been manually wound.
 
   Briefly consider, also, the beautiful slender simplicity of classical manual winds, from vintage delights such as the Patek Philippe  Ref. 96 Calatrava to modern watches of distinction from great companies like Audemars Piguet , Piaget , or Vacheron Constantin .  Even better, the joy of hand-winding is not the sole preserve of heirs, monarchs or plutocrats; watches like the Omega Speedmaster Professional  or Daniel Jean-Richard  Bressel provide great satisfaction for a very reasonable expenditure. 

   There will always be something special about savoring the smooth hum of perfectly crafted gears as the manual wind is brought to life for a special occasion and then laid to rest until it is called for again.  Like popping the cork from a bottle of wine, trimming a cigar, or clicking through the sequence of gears in a gated shifter, the act of manually winding a watch is a ritual of affirmation for those who prefer to savor life’s fine details.

 -Adam Keith

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I used to think that luxury watch purchasing was a more man centric thing, but I soon realized that women are now starting to get into the watch craze as well. Look no further then a red carpet event in LA or to the streets of New York. Women are catching the watch bug just like men.

It’s not like they are out buying a one-off from Jacob the Jeweler because Paris or Nicole have one. They are now buying multiple Swiss time pieces and are accessorizing them like shoes.

Some might say buying a Swiss luxury watch is a passing fad for women. I would argue that some watch manufacturers are now making cooler watches for women and women are seeing the beauty in them. For proof, all you have to do is look around at some shops and see these exquisite fashion forward pieces being produced by some of the finest watch houses today.

I personally think Roger Dubuis makes some of coolest women’s watches on the planet. Look at their TooMuch line, its awesome and unlike any other women’s watch line. This last year, the Girard-Perregaux ladies Cat’s Eye was deservingly voted “The Most Beautiful Women’s Watch of the Year” at the Tokyo Gran Prix. When this watch came out I was equally impressed by its design. Check it out in rose gold with a diamond bezel. It’s amazing. There are few ladies watches that are its equal in this variation.

To me it just seems like there are more options for women in the watch world these days and female celebrities are right there buying them.

Last year if you asked me, I would have told you that most celebrity females wore Rolex. While it is still a popular brand with some female celebrities, others are branching out and flirting with multiple houses.

It’s no secret that Britney Spears loves Roger Dubuis . She has been seen with one on and so has her husband, K-Fed. BUT, last month she was seen leaving a party for her signature fragrance wearing what looks like a Chopard Montres Dame. As I might have mentioned before Britney and Kevin have a severe case of the watch bug and I have seen them wearing Breitling , Chopard , Dubey and Shaldenbrand , and Roger Dubuis timepieces.

That same week in NYC Victoria Beckham (aka Posh Spice) was spotted flying solo wearing an iced-out ladies Piaget watch. She wasn’t even dressing it up either. She was wearing it with a T-shirt. I guess when it comes to fashion, she knows what she wants, what she really really wants….

Another female celebrity watch junkie is little Lindsay Lohan . From what I have seen, she has a decent watch collection. When she showed up at the 2006 CFDA fashion awards, she was appropriately sporting a new Chanel J12 watch which she matched to her black and white outfit. She looked stunning and the watched worked well with the outfit. You go girl!

Vintage watches are still all the rage. Jennifer Anniston rocks a vintage Cartier which she seems to have worn in many recent movies. Other vintage watch afficianadas like Jessica Simpson roll with the vintage Rolex . Jessica was seen going to a recording studio in NYC last month wearing a gold President. Another notable blonde (sometimes) who rocks the vintage Rolex is Nicky Hilton . She was seen on the streets of LA earlier this year with a man sized Rollie on her wrist.

At the end of the day, more and more female celebs are seen with fine Swiss time pieces on their wrist. I am also seeing them wearing larger variety of watch brands than their male counterparts. Maybe it’s a trend, maybe they just know how to accessorize better then us men do.

What do you think?

-Pauley

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Finding out the proper ring size for your loved one is simply one of the most important things your can do in preparing to purchase a ring .  For the most part, it is not advisable to purchase a gift ring in a standard ring size which you plan to have adjusted later.  The degree to which you can size a ring up or down is greatly dependant upon the design of the ring, and it is almost always better to simply have a ring made up in the proper size rather than trying to size a stock version.

For simple ring styles like a plain diamond solitaire , it is fairly simple to perform size adjustments as much as 2-3 full ring sizes up or down, and even more.  However, if a ring design incorporates accent stones or detail work down the side of the band (shank), your ability to safely size the ring begins to disappear.  At the extreme end of this spectrum are eternity rings, which have stones set all the way around the band.  These ring designs are simply not sizable at all.

To size a ring, a jeweler must make a cut at the bottom of the ring.  If the ring is being sized up, the metal will be bent outward, and an additional portion of metal will be soldered in to close the gap.  If the ring is being sized down, the jeweler will cut out a portion of metal at the bottom, and the sides of the band will then be bent in and soldered together to close the gap.  In either case, this type of adjustment can result in structural damage to stone mountings.  This can lead to cracked stones, destabilized mountings, and a variety of aesthetic problems, the most common being an “oval” shaped ring.  Ring sizing  is also problematic if you have engraving or filigree detail, as the size adjustment may make it difficult or impossible to mimic the original detail design.

However, all this being said, small size adjustments of ¼ size or ½ size are generally not a problem.  Fortunately, the average individual will not go through large ring size changes in their adult life.  Normal weight gain or loss will only result in small ring size changes which should be easily accommodated by a skilled jeweler.  My main intent here would be to caution gift givers who don’t know their loved one’s proper ring size.  The majority of ladies rings are made up in a stock size of 6 to 6 ½, but it is normal for women to have ring sizes as small as 3 and as big as 9 or larger.

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It is wonderful to see that in this age of technology and advancement that some traditions stand the test of time. With graduation season in full swing we have had many proud parents and significant others purchasing timepieces to celebrate the accomplishments of their loved ones from college and high school.

The types of watches being given are as varied as the recipients. For many of the high school graduates, parents are presenting their students with TAG Heuer Formula 1 and Omega Aqua Terra watches . Most of these timepieces are durable and sporty…the kind of watch to keep pace with a young adult heading off to college.

Some parents have chosen a more dressy watch like a Raymond Weil Tradition and again the Omega DeVille ….a watch they can wear to important future events to remind them of what they have accomplished so far. For college graduates depending on the field of study and of course the personality of the gift recipient the timepieces purchased this season range from the very beautiful Raymond Weil Parsifal for ladies is stainless steel with and without diamonds to a gentleman’s IWC Big Pilot in platinum.
Others items that have been popular as graduation gifts this season have been Montblanc writing instruments and planners as well as pendants and earrings. One of the more humorous gift giving instances was one father buying himself a very nice Breitling Windrider Chronomat Evolution for putting his daughter through medical school!
Whatever the choice, the memories of their graduation will be there with each glance at their wristwatch.

-Sandy

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Technorati Tags: TAG Heuer Formula 1 , Omega Aqua Terra, watches, timepieces, Raymond Weil Tradition, Omega DeVille, Raymond Weil Parsifal, IWC Big Pilot, Breitling Windrider Chronomat Evolution