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 As seems to be the case every year, the December holidays are upon us.  And, while deep down, we all KNOW that our family, friends, and good health are what really matter, it simply wouldn’t be human of us not to have a wish list of at least a couple of shamelessly decadent material things that we would really love to have, “just because”.
 
     In my case, that could be lots of things actually, as I have far too many longstanding expensive hobbies for my own good.  Since this is a watch blog after all, I suppose I’ll stick to the topic which keeps me fed and warm.  Which brings us to the wishful wanton want—a dedicated dress watch.
 
      I don’t have a dedicated dress watch, and I know what you are thinking..”a DEDICATED dress watch?! Couldn’t any reasonably decent looking watch be used for that?  What the hell is a DEDICATED dress watch?  Is this guy nuts??”  For those who have umpteen watches and counting, you of course know EXACTLY what I am talking about.   My Chopard L.U.C. Twist  is an absolutely gorgeous watch which is rather on the dressy side, but its just a tad too big and a smidge too thick to be in the DEDICATED dress watch category—that kind of timepiece should be ultra-slim, under 40mm in diameter, and while I’m at it, manually wound, if possible.
 
     Which one do I want?  Two strong contenders have got my attention in the last half year—the Girard-Perregaux 1966 watch , and the Piaget Altiplano watch.  Both are beautiful rose gold timepieces, that are ultra-slim, measure less than 40mm and boast the manufacture movements that my watch obsessed soul craves in contradiction to all reason and common sense supplied by my wife, who tries her level best to keep me on the straight and narrow.  A few month ago, the Girard-Perregaux seemed to be “it”, but having handled a freshly unwrapped Piaget Altiplano the other day (along with the new Emperador Coussin–a really stunning watch!), I must say, that the balance has narrowly shifted.   The oh-so-slim case, the gently domed dial and crystal…truly tasty stuff.  Yes, the Girard-Perregaux has those also,  and all are done very well, too….but the Piaget’s movement is MANUALLY wound, while the GP relies on a very slender selfwinding movement.  Very nice indeed, but not manual.  Plus, the Girard-Perregaux has a sweeping second hand and a date display—great stuff, but not necessary on the dedicated dress watch, which really needs only the hour and the minute hand.    Levity aside, the Piaget Altiplano is very impressive, and I encourage anyone who lusts after a bona fide dress watch to have a long, appreciative look at it.  White gold or rose gold you ask?  Doesn’t matter-go with whichever turns you on.  Turn the crown, examine the details of the wafer-thin case and the baton dial, then slip it on.   It is exquisite, period.  I will also go out on a limb and say that Piaget sometimes seems to not get the recognition it should among its competition, such as Audemars Piguet , Patek Philippe , or Vacheron Constantin , and that should not be the case.  Yes, these brands are truly great, but so is Piaget , and seeing, handling, and winding one will be all the proof you need that this Manufacture deserves full inclusion amongst the well-known giants. 
 
     Now, I just need to talk myself out of it, and to be honest, I think I can; after all, a dedicated dress watch is something I have occasion to wear just about never.    But next year?  Well, you just never know!

 -Adam Keith

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Flavor-Flav started his successful career with one of Hip-Hop’s most influential groups, Public Enemy .

Public Enemy was Hip-Hop’s first politically charged group with such memorable song such as “Fight the Power” and “911 is a Joke”. In Public Enemy, Flav plays the roll of a comedic front man and over the years has proclaimed himself the worlds greatest “hype man”.

A few years ago, Flav’s group was voted #55 in Rolling Stone Magazine’s Fifty Greatest Artist of All Time.

In the past decade Flav has hit his second wind as a reality TV star. He started his reality career on the Surreal Life where he “Fell in Love” with the voluptuous alpine cast member Brigitte Nielson. Flavor parlayed his Amazonian romance into a second reality tv show called “Strange Love”. This turned out to be a romantic comedy which depicts his ongoing “romance” with the lovely and colossal Brigitte Nielson. Once their romance was “over” he parlayed that into a new show called “Flavor of Love” where he attempt to find the love of his life from a gaggle of finishing school dropouts.

This showed turned out to be one of VH1’s top rated reality tv shows of all time. Who knew?

Interesting factoid: Flav has always worn a clock around his neck so you know “what time it is”. This is his signature accessory and he is probably the only person in the world that wears large wall clocks around their neck.

So what brand of clock does Flavor wear around his neck? The choices could be endless….Rolex, AP, Jaeger? The first thing I would have guessed would have been some custom made Jacob & Co piece.

I was watching a recent award show and was surprised to see that he was wearing none other then a Movado.

With all his success, it’s strange that he doesn’t wear a swankier clock brand around his neck. I would think he could afford almost any brand. Upon further investigation, it turns out Flav has 7 kids which he doesn’t play child support for. Who knows what Flav does with all his money. Obviously he doesn’t spend it on clocks or his posterity.

-Paul Morillo

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�=�=�=�= Few people who are “into” the watch scene would dispute the incredible ascendancy of Harry Winston�= as a player of note within the scheme of the elite watchmaking houses.�= From 2001 until the present, the company has managed to astound collectors with complications of unbelievable ingenuity, under the highly limited “Opus” dedication, each a collaboration with a noted independent watchmaker.�= The man largely responsible for orchestrating this explosive creativity within Harry Winston is Maximilian Busser , who was brought on board to be the Managing Director for Harry Winston Rare Timepieces in 1998, after having previously spent seven years at Jaeger Le Coultre .�= Each passing year, Busser and the team at Harry Winston introduced watches which were not only horlogically remarkable, but represented an unprecedented level of artistic and expressive freedom.�= At the same time, this overflow of creativity also stimulated the entire line of Harry Winston watches, resulting in timepieces which were–and are–luxurious, mechanically sophisticated, and possessed of a distinctive style.�=�=
�=
�=�=�=�= Now, Mr. Busser has left Harry Winston, and is creating an entirely new venture, entitled “Maximilian Busser & Friends”(http://mbandf.com/), which will dedicate itself to projects of very much the same spiritual impetus as that of the “Opus” watches.�= Each year, Mr. Busser’s new company–he and his friends within the independent watchmaking community– will produce a single exceptional watch concept, each the brainchild of a unique creative vision.�= Having already worked with many of the greatest horological minds in the world during his tenure with Harry Winston, it will certainly be interesting to see where Mr. Busser’s newfound conceptual freedom takes him.�= According to the new MB&F website, this new venture will cultivate maximum creativity, the development of the unique artistic abilities of each project member or members, and will emphasize haute horlogerie as “kinetic sculpture.”�=�= Although the first MB&F project has not yet reached the market, pictures and preliminary information indicate it to be remarkable, both in its aesthetics and its degree of horological accomplishment.
�=
�=�=�=�= I find this to be very exciting news, and wish Mr. Busser and his talented group of friends the best of luck.�= Within the watch industry, it is nice to see the atmosphere shaken a bit.�= In both complications (remember the “year of the tourbillon”?) and style, it sometimes seems that we only see various degrees of technical and aesthetic “recycling”.�= I don’t mean that to sound like a wholesale condemnation of well established brands or classic watch lines.�= On the contrary, in fact; classics certainly deserve great respect, and the avant garde–when pushed too far for its own sake–can become tiresome and preachy, but you need one to appreciate the other, and I think that is the great merit of a venture such as this.�= A considerable roster of talented independent watchmakers have made their impression felt in the last decade, and as the appreciation for high luxury watchmaking grows, so too will the interest in the work of these people.�= Many of these individuals now building a reputation as independents once did very fine work for the great established companies, but languished in obscurity before deciding to pursue their own vision; the idea of a company whose specific purpose is to cultivate and highlight these horological artists, is certainly a welcome one whose time is ripe.�= If successful, it will allow devoted collectors and fans the opportunity to get greater exposure to the bright minds who are responsible for furthering horology in the 21st century.�= And that can only be a good thing for the industry at large!

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The other day, I came across an interesting and thought provoking analytical article, written by a certain Mr. Jean-Claude Nicolet, a watchmaker and professor in La Chaux de Fonds.   
 
http://www.europastar.com/europastar/watch_tech/tourbillon.jsp#anchor377524
 
 
In the article, the author presents his case that the tourbillon regulator  is, for all purposes, a needlessly complex horological device which consumes excessive energy, and conceals (rather than compensates for) positional errors caused by gravity’s pull, thus making the task of the observatories nearly impossible—to evaluate the precise difference between positions, and concomitantly, the true skills of the watchmakers in the demanding task of regulating a high quality watch to a truly supreme level of precision.  Ultimately, when tourbillons  triumphed over other watches in observatory trials, the author hypothesizes that this is due to the tourbillon’s ability to conceal it’s positional errors due to its constant “cancellation” effect, not because it was truly the ultimate solution to the problem of gravity as Breguet , who invented it, had claimed.   Outside of the precise testing conditions of the observatory, the author states, the tourbillon is actually at a disadvantage, particularly within a wristwatch, which is subjected to numerous position changes throughout the day, a situation which is unfavorable to the tourbillon, whose invention came about due to the way pocket watches were worn.    Ultimately, the author does not discuss some of the new multi-axis tourbillons (such as the Jaeger Le-Coultre Gyrotourbillon) which are claimed to address the specific positional realities of wristwatches; perhaps he can pick up the ball, so to speak, in a later article.   
 
   Not being an engineer nor a watchmaker, I really am not qualified to agree or disagree with Mr. Nicolet’s assessment, but I certainly do find it interesting even as a layperson, and a worthwhile counterpoint to the nearly hagiolatrous adulation often heaped upon the tourbillon.  Regarding craftsmanship, the author is in full agreement that hand-crafted tourbillons ARE indeed a masterpiece, and their delicate craftsmanship prevents their construction by all but a select handful of masters.  It is certainly an interesting sidenote to consider the authors point of view, and then realize how many new “not-necessarily-artisanal-tourbillons” are being produced–in fact, technology is now making it possible for crude, but functional tourbillon escapements to be produced, a true sign of the celebrity appeal of the tourbillon.  Even in these watches, the tireless rotation of the tourbillon itself is most fascinating to watch, but there again, the consideration is raised–is the tourbillon–handcrafted or otherwise–a functional complication, or a highly complex toy for the watch obsessed (like myself) to gawk at through a sapphire caseback?    
 
  But, perhaps the obvious question is, “do we care?”  The tourbillon is without question a beautiful and fascinating sight, and perhaps that is enough.  Whether or not it confers any advantages or in fact introduces disadvantages, as Mr. Nicolet suggests, may be a moot point.  One thing I am sure of, the popularity of tourbillon watches and the makers who craft them will surely continue, as long as the fascination with elite mechanical watchmaking remains strong. 
 

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Last week Mexico swore in Felipe Calderon as their new president. Calderon was 44 years old as he was swore in as the next president of Mexico. While he might have got enough of the majority vote to win the election, he didn’t win over all of Mexico.

Supporters of he biggest rival Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador were not so happy. An hour before Calderon was to be sworn in, Obrador supporters tried to block the doors to the congressional chamber. Things got ugly and eventually punches and chairs were being thrown in the Mexican congressional chamber.

Fortunately for us, someone was there with a camera to grab a photo of the melee. If you look closely, you will see that one of the fighters is wearing a Bvlgari Diagano Aluminum watch .

So for all you tough guys out there, if you are wondering what other watches tough guys are wearing, go out and get yourself a Bvlgari Diagano watch .

-Paul Morillo

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