Archive for January, 2007

OMEGA: A WATCH COMPANY WITH VISION

Tuesday, January 30th, 2007

omega-speedmaster.jpg I’m going to start this blog with a preamble, so forgive me. (My fellow watch fiends, this is leading somewhere good, I promise!)

Most anyone would agree that Omega is one of the world’s most well known–and respected–watch brands.  With their colorful and varied ad campaigns over the years, Omega has stayed firmly within the consciousness of the public, both general (who want a watch to tell time, and convey a certain prestige), and the dedicated watch consumer (the folks who spend hours online salivating over every watch imaginable), who recognize that Omega offers a tremendous combination of rich history, horological achievement, and value.   In everything from Omega’s prominent place in the history of the prestigious chronometer competitions, to their creation of legendary watches such as the Speedmaster Moonwatch or the Constellation Chronometer , to innovative complications such as a centrally mounted tourbillon, the company has proven themselves to have the stuff of true brand greatness.  As of the last several years, Omega has really taken off; we have seen them make the revolutionary George Daniels Co-Axial escapement a production reality, and increasingly integrate this impressive horological technology into a rapidly expanding breadth of their product line.  

With the increasing emphasis on important watch companies being Manufactures, and offering new, exclusive mechanisms, Omega has upped the ante as well, and has introduced a new family of completely Omega-designed and produced movements that look to be very exciting.  The new 8500 Caliber has just been announced by Omega, who held a conference with the watch press to offer details of the construction.  The new movement will have two mainspring barrels operating in series, for a power reserve of 60 hours.  The balance wheel is made of a new, advanced (yet undisclosed) material, and ticks beneath a full balance bridge, which incidentally, is made from solid gold, as is the massive central winding rotor; naturally, the  Other interesting details include the exclusive use of a striking new cotes de Geneve decorative pattern, called “Arabesque”, which adorns all the movement bridges and the rotor, as well as the choice to put the movement inside a “case within a case”–a sapphire crystal cage encases the movement, which is then slipped into the main watchcase.  Omega will first offer the 8500 Cal. movement in the De Ville watch collection, in both stainless steel and 18K gold models.   

We can probably assume that Omega will maintain a very competitive price structure for watches with this luxurious new movement, compared to other movements of this horological class by other prestigious watchmaking houses.  This positive value/quality ratio has been one of Omega’s strengths for a long time, and one very much appreciated by watch collectors.  If their current activities are any indication, I don’t think Omega will have any difficulty maintaining their excellent worldwide reputation and renown; if anything, it’s just going to get better and brighter.  

Here is a link which gives more details:

http://www.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost.classic/fi-17/pi-1991957/ti-308831/s–3/

 

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Complicated watches from……China?

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007

venus175.jpg One of the more interesting phenomena taking place in the watch world today, I think, is the gradually increasing presence of Chinese-made movements and watches which offer the traditional and very expensive Swiss complications at extremely low prices.  No, I’m not referring to the old quartz knockoffs which had famous Swiss names on the dial, which could be scarcely passed off as being worth more than a few bucks.  I’m referring to the new generation of low-priced mechanical complications that are actually being made in the Orient and sold with various obscure names upon the dial.  The most famous of these are the tourbillons  that have been increasingly seen in the last year or two, usually priced at less than two thousand dollars.  Now, while these mechanisms are crudely finished and cannot be compared to what one would see from an Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, or Patek Philippe (for example), they are in fact, functional—and it is not hard to understand how a watch-lover with a restricted budget might find a functional tourbillon, for a mere fraction of the price of most, a fascinating and worthwhile acquisition.  In the case of the tourbillon , while connoisseurs certainly hold dedicated hand finishing and the famed difficulty of constructing a high quality tourbillon regulator in as much regard as the mesmerizing movements of the tourbillon, there can be little doubt that the visual element of the rotating tourbillon cage is its main attraction to most. (Otherwise, why do manufacturers these days nearly universally insist on cutting windows into the dial to make the tourbillon the center of attention?) 

In any event, today I came across an interesting post on one of the more active horology websites on the Internet, and found the photos and resultant discussion very worthwhile:

                 http://www.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost.classic/fi-17/pi-1983927/ti-307272/s-0/

The person who began the thread is showing a Chinese-made chronograph, complete with a column-wheel controlled chronograph modeled after the famous Venus 175 , one of the most prized and prestigious vintage Swiss chronograph movements!  Now, while the finish of the Chinese copy is crude, the unmistakable bridge structure of the Venus 175 was all there, including the column wheel control (which shows some manufacturing shortcuts)—and yes, the copy functions as it should.  Once again, like the tourbillons mentioned above, its ultimate craft may be lacking, but so is the hefty tariff that would accompany the Swiss masterpiece–so, the relative appeal cannot be denied, given the low price point.   Photos are included, and there is a lively and thoughtful exchange of opinions about various issues related to the production of these Chinese made efforts at haute horlogerie.

The Asian market is rapidly booming as a consumer of fine Swiss and German luxury watches, as their economic clout grows.  It will be interesting to see what kind of watches they may begin to manufacture as time goes on–perhaps they will even be able to offer their own finely finished manufacture movements someday, an interesting proposition that certainly will create some lively debates within the watch community.  Some find it threatening and ominous; others welcome it as refreshing competition that will stimulate innovation and value within the luxury watch industry.  It will certainly be an interesting story that unfolds, so I’ll enjoy my seat on the sideline.

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Bill Clinton: Watch Collector

Thursday, January 18th, 2007

clinton21.jpg When Bill Clinton was in office, he wore a Timex Ironman watch wherever he went. These days, he is a private sector speaker who easily earns $50,000 per speaking engagement. While he is no longer the president of the United States, he seems to be more politically energized then ever, and with the looks of his watch collection, wealthier then ever too.

On October 20th, Bill Clinton was seen at a fundraiser for Jim Davis sporting a nice navy blue suit, light blue shirt, tangerine colored tie and a Cartier Roadster watch . This watch and the Cartier Santos 100 are 2 of the coolest and popular watches Cartier produces. They come on a bracelet as well as a more comfortable leather strap. President Clinton in this case opted for the bracelet.

One week later the former president was at a speaking engagement at UCLA supporting Prop 87. At this particular engagement he opted for his signature blue suit, white shirt, turquoise tie, and a big Panerai Luminor. You gotta be thrilled if you are a Panerai guy. This has been your year. Panerai’s are hard to get and sell out every year, so consider yourself lucky if you have one.

As I mentioned before, Clinton is also a huge Roger Dubuis fan. A few years ago I saw him on the cover of Time Magazine wearing a Roger Dubuis Much More watch. I gotta admit the guy has good taste in watches.

-Paul Morillo

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Blacpain Watches

Thursday, January 18th, 2007

BP-logo.jpg I’ve had the chance to spend some time lately revisiting the current offerings of Blancpain , and getting re-familiarized (or perhaps just familiarized, period) with their pretty extensive catalog. If one wasn’t already keyed in to the fact that Blancpain is a serious watch Manufacture, viewing their outstanding lineup certainly gets you up to speed. Since being revived by Jean-Claude Biver in the 1980’s, the ancient brand whose origins date back to 1735 has produced a steady output of really remarkable watches—after all, it was the introduction by Blancpain of the complete calendar with moonphase that is credited in good part, for the revival of interest in fine mechanical watches, which seemed doomed to extinction by the early 1980’s. Blancpain’s intimate partnership with movement specialist Frederic Piguet resulted in the production of an extremely fine series of column-wheel controlled chronograph movements which to this day represent an enviable balance between horological craft and technological sophistication. Since the early days with the “Six Masterpieces” watch series, perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, tourbillons with bounteous power reserves, split-second chronographs, and Grand Complications (the amazing 1735) have all found their way from the tiny workshops of Blancpain in Paudex and Le Brassus, onto the waiting wrists of fortunate watch fanatics all over the world.

Therefore, it seems understandable that within the ranks of Blancpain cognoscenti, the introduction this past year of a new, designed-from-the-ground-up, manually wound 8-day movement would definitely stir up excitement. Though I’ve not personally had a chance to examine one yet, Blancpain’s first watch to house this new calibre looks to be very, very nice, as one would naturally expect from Blancpain. The limited-edition Blancpain Le Brassus 8-Jours watch is cased exclusively in 950 platinum, and is a wonderfully elegant watch that will appeal strongly to classicists. The Blancpain 13RO Calibre, as it is called, displays some very high grade elements, such as a free-sprung Breguet overcoil hairspring, three mainspring barrels, (two of which “feed” the third, resulting in a consistent power transfer to the escapement, and thus ideal isochronism) and a unique titanium balance wheel whose inertia is controlled via 4 gold screws on its rim. The date mechanism looks really neat as well, and it has a built-in device that precludes any damage should the user inadvertently attempt to set the date backwards. Needless to say, the finishing of this new Blancpain movement is exemplary, both in places visible to the viewer, and places that only the watchmaker typically sees. Ron DeCorte of Timezone, has written an excellent and very informative article on the new Blancpain Le Brassus 8-Jours watch, complete with pictures of the impressive new Blancpain 13RO movement in various stages of dissasembly; there are also some amazing Blancpain animations shown that give a truly in-depth view of the the details and construction of this movement. Here is the link for Mr. DeCorte’s article:

http://www.timezone.com/www.timezone.com/library/extras/rdnotebook/200611066346

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Michael Beaudry Designer Jewelry

Thursday, January 18th, 2007

ring-blog1.jpgRecently, we brought on Michael Beaudry’s designer jewelry here in our retail store, and we have also added a selection of his jewelry to our website.  Having grown up in the jewelry industry, I can be hard to impress when it comes to high-end designer jewelry.  Oftentimes, designer jewelry simply ends up being the same old designs being purveyed by a new brand, usually with little or no original flair.  Furthermore, the quality of craftsmanship frequently ranges from adequate to unimpressive.

Michael Beaudry’s jewelry is clearly the exception to this rule.  In fact, I’ll go so far as to say that I have never seen a finer example of the artistry of jewelry design and manufacture.  Michael Beaudry  jewelry truly exemplifies the notion that jewelry can transcend commodity to become a piece of artwork, and his customers know it.

Michael Beaudry is somewhat of a phenomenon in the world of designer jewelry.  He began as a master diamond cutter, and quickly made a name for himself as the go-to guy for large and complicated diamond cutting jobs.  Soon, his customers were asking him to design jewelry to complement the gorgeous diamonds he was cutting for them.  In a short time, Michael Beaudry’s jewelry designs became as legendary as his diamond cutting skills.  In fact, many of his “customers” would be more accurately labeled as “collectors,” due to their loyalty and passion for his jewelry.

Today, each of Michael Beaudry’s diamond jewelry creations passes through the hands of multiple specialized jewelry artisans.  Each of these individual’s is a master jeweler in their own right, but Michael chooses them based on a specific specialty such as engraving, or diamond setting.  This process of selection ensures that every finished piece of Michael Beaudry jewelry looks and feels absolutely exceptional.

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The Virtues of Simplicity In Watches

Wednesday, January 3rd, 2007

piaget-blog3.jpg I love simple watches.  The more I go down the road, so to speak, and see, admire, and try on different watches, I find that I am invariably most attracted to ones that are the most clean, classic, or at least appear so, externally. 
 
       Mechanical complications are a wonderful thing, to be sure, and ones that are obvious in their complexity are pretty neat—how can you fail to be impressed by something like the Audemars Piguet  Concept Watch, the Blancpain  Le Brassus 1735 watch, or a multiple-retrograde perpetual calendar chronograph from Roger Dubuis?  While these three examples are extremely diverse aesthetically, they all share an emphasis on mechanical complexity.  The numerous functions, and the way they are presented, make these watches daunting, both conceptually and visually.
 
     Then again, there are other very complicated watches which are very serene, concealing their mechanical virtuosity beneath a very modest facade.  Looking at one of the older Audemars Piguet Grande Sonneries (before the model was updated with the dynamograph for the chime) all the eye could make out was an incredibly beautiful round 38mm watch, with an hour and minute hand, and a small subdial for the subsidiary seconds.  Only a tiny button on the case at 10 o’clock, and a little 3-position slide on the opposite side indicated this watch was anything beyond a basic timekeeper.  This is one of the ultimate examples of luxurious discretion—a watch worth well over a quarter of a million dollars with an immensely complicated movement with a part density of over 150 pieces per cubic centimeter, which tells the time with beautiful chimes.   The same could be said for the minute repeaters produced by Blancpain.  Two perpetuals with very harmonious, classic layouts include the Patek Philippe Ref. 3940 and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch.  Even though both of these watches indicate full day/date/month/leap year/moonphase, the display is very quiet and understated.  Gotta say, I really like that, as more and more watches hit the market with every conceivable doodad; and that, it seems, is really a great part of my evolution of tastes—after seeing so many eye-popping watches with numerous subdials, multiples of hands, and tourbillon cutouts, the ”boring” three, and four handed watches are as refreshing as a cold drink of water on a hot summer day.  
 
    Now we come to the watches that are truly simple. (And, before I go any further, ”simple” is a relative term; I’d be very poorly qualified to attempt the assembly–and probably even the disassembly–of even the most basic manually wound movement which still can come in at over 150 parts.)  Just hours, minutes, maybe seconds, and possibly, although not necessarily, a date display.   A couple weeks ago I wrote about the Piaget Altiplano watch, and the Girard-Perregaux 1966, both really gorgeous ultra-slim gold watches, and perfect examples of this category.   Sports watches too, can be of the simple variety, and probably should, for the sake of the adventures that sports watches are supposedly created to accompany; after all, the less functions a watch (or any machine) has, the less that can break or malfunction under stressful conditions.  The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, while a chronograph, is a wonderfully clean one; its manually wound Lemania chronograph movement is tried, tested, and classic–it has served on astronauts wrists as they underwent extreme G-forces, accelerations, and even walked on the Moon.  The same could be said of many classic Rolex models—the Explorer being a particular favorite of mine, due to it’s stealth factor.  Again–we have a stainless steel watch with a black dial that shows only hours, minutes and seconds, but I can’t seem to take mine off my wrist whenever I need an tough watch; that the Explorer also happens to have wonderfully understated good looks, has a great four-decade-plus history, and is an exceptionally good timekeeper, are added bonuses which delight me to no end.   At 36mm, it isn’t even fashionably large, but I really don’t care;  three years after trading another watch to get it, I like my Explorer more than ever, now that it is personalized with use and my personal travels.  It’s one watch I won’t sell, unless I need an emergency down-payment for a kidney or something.  
 
     In my humble opinion, the ultimate simple watch in the world today, is Philippe Dufour’s magnificent and appropriately named “Simplicity”.  Of course, “simple” is a lacking adjective to describe this watch, whose execution is anything but simple, and very likely represents the ultimate movement finishing and quality of construction found anywhere on the planet.  Last I read, Mr. Dufour and his few gifted assistants are filling close to a decade of back-orders, such is the demand for this incredible manual wound watch that features only hours, minutes, and seconds.  My words would fail very poorly to convey the storybook craftsmanship that Philippe Dufour puts into his very tiny production.   Mr. Dufour began producing the Simplicity AFTER having made some remarkable complicated pieces, including a staggering [tag] Grande Sonnerie [tag] wristwatch; the master wanted to return to a simple watch, with only the basic elements, thus focusing instead upon the flawless execution of every single detail, those both visible and invisible to the eye, as well as materials.  The Simplicity is, quite probably, the most expensive three-handed manually wound watch in the world, but I have to say, were I so fortunate, it would be my personal “holy grail”.    If you haven’t seen it, please visit the link below to see more of Philippe Dufour’s amazing work, with additional links to information and stunning macro-photography of these watches and the man who makes them found at the bottom of that page.
               
http://dufourwatches.free.fr/

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