Well, Basel and SIHH have come and gone for 2007, leaving in their wake the introduction of all kinds of watches from the breadth of brands, from top tier to bottom and everything in between. The trend for large timepieces continues to go on unfazed, and with a few exceptions, one could say that subtlety is not the overriding design goal of many brands. Striking, yes. In many cases, definitely beautiful. Subtle, not particularly.

Thanks to our wondrous technological age, I, like many others, got to experience some of the proverbial kid-at-Christmas excitement of Basel and SIHH, through the lens and words of others, who attended and reported back on what they saw. Many thanks to those individuals!

Speaking personally, a few watches introduced really resonated with me. However, I think that my single favorite watch introduced this year is the amazing Girard-Perregaux 1945 Vintage Jackpot Tourbillon watch. If you haven’t had a chance to see this incredible timepiece, please do have a look at it. As Time Zone’s James Dowling so astutely observes, this is a watch which turns notions of the “importance” of complications, upside down. Girard-Perregaux has developed a spectacularly complicated movement, with an entirely novel mechanism, that replicates the functions of a slot machine! By pulling the lever on the side of the case, the reels spin in a blur of speed—moments later three of five symbols–the suits of spades, hearts, diamonds, horseshoes, or bells–appear. Each time the reels stop, a minute repeater-type hammer strikes a gong, producing a bright chime. This unique complication is inspired by the original late 19th century “Liberty Bell” slot machine, which drew its name from the bell symbol that symbolized American liberty.

The first time I saw this watch, I had to do a bit of a double take. My first thought was “it just LOOKS like a slot machine; it can’t actually work like one….CAN it??” Well, it can! Some may find this watch utterly ridiculous—but that, in my opinion, is exactly what is so great about it. How many interpretations of classical complications, however nice, do we see? While there is much to be said for these respected complications, its really an admirable thing that Girard-Perregaux has applied all the principles that are demanded by traditional haute horlogerie (particularly the minute repeater mechanism) and created something entirely new, that is frivolous, fun, and doesn’t take itself too seriously. Besides, traditionalists can still enjoy the beautiful one-minute tourbillon—with the famous, characteristic Girard-Perregaux rose gold bridge. As a final thought, Girard-Perregaux has executed the Vintage Jackpot Tourbillon watch with real grace and elegance; the slot machine reels (made from hollowed out gold, which are finely lacquered) are situated very elegantly at the top of the dial, and the lever is beautifully and thoughtfully incorporated into the case profile of the watch, while still managing to resemble a miniature slot machine lever!

The Girard-Perregaux 1945 Vintage Jackpot Tourbillon watch will be extremely costly, and it will be equally rare—Girard-Perregaux has indicated production of only a few pieces each year, at best. It does not surprise me one bit that Girard-Perregaux pre-sold several of these watches within mere hours of showing it. While I don’t know the percentage, I’m fairly sure this watch will be a sought after treasure for more than a few highly successful Casino owners. Were I one, I suspect I might be very tempted indeed to place an order with Girard-Perregaux!

Please enjoy this brief video of the watch in action:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v616/dkw/HM/GP/Videos/action=view&current=a2513dd4.flv

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At SIHH 2007 , IWC has shown an entire new family range for the Da Vinci watch collection, which transform these iconic timepieces into something quite different than what we’ve become familiar with. The distinctive Da Vinci form with its rounded case contours, articulated bracelet attachment, and the cabochon-shaped chronograph pushpieces has given way to a tonneau look.

I’ve caught discussions on several of the watch forums and agree with the general vibe that many have expressed. The design, while attractive and well-executed, lacks the characteristic unique appearance that defined the Da Vinci watches, particularly the Large DaVinci watch, whose perpetual calendar mechanism represented one of the first really serious mechanical timepiece to challenge the supremacy of quartz back in the 1980’s. In short, I agree with those who find the new design attractive, but mourn the passing of the older Da Vinci watch, which was unmistakably IWC . This new tonneau form reminded one watch fan of designs already on the market from Ulysse Nardin or Maurice Lacroix. Yet another opined that it resembled some of the tonneau watches from Oris.

Oh well, enough complaining. I won’t say anything else with a disparaging tone, since I haven’t yet had a chance to see any of the new Da Vinci watches and take a close look at them. From the press and enthusiast photos, the fit and finish do look absolutely outstanding, and offer considerably more complexity (i.e. brushed and polished surfaces) than did the round Da Vinci watch case. IWC will offer the newly redesigned Da Vinci watch in three versions: A perpetual calendar/chronograph model that features the same movement we’ve all come to know from the classic IWC Large Da Vinci watch, a basic automatic with a big date, and finally, a chronograph which incorporates an in-house IWC movement with some exciting mechanical technology. For the sake of nostalgia, the new Da Vinci perpetual calendar would certainly be the one to choose; IWC has limited it to 30 pieces each in white gold and platinum, and another 500 in rose gold. A portrait on the caseback of this model pays tribute to the brilliant Kurt Klaus, who among many other things, designed the perpetual calendar/chronograph movement for the original Da Vinci watch. While at a hasty glance this watch might not seem to share much with the familiar Da Vinci timepiece of old, a look at its dial readily confirms that it makes use of the same movement and complicated displays which characterized its predecessor.

Movement snob that I am, however, the Da Vinci Chronograph watch has to be the most interesting. Utilizing the unique IWC pawl-based Pellaton selfwinding system, the new IWC Caliber 89360 combines both the 12 hour, and 30 minute totalizers within a single subdial at the top of the watch dial; mirrored below by the subsidiary seconds, this watch gives the elegant appearance of a bi-compax display with the unimpeded functionality of a three-counter chronograph. Nicely done, IWC! Furthermore, this new IWC caliber has a column-wheel controlled chronograph mechanism, a flyback function for the chronograph central second hand, and a freely sprung balance with 4 inertial weights. Also new to this movement is a elaboration of the already very sophisticated Pellaton pawl-winding system; the IWC 89360 Caliber movement increases the pawl count to 4 (from the usual 2), which improves the efficiency of the winding motion by approximately 30 percent. IWC boasts a power-reserve of 68 hours for the Da Vinci chronograph watch, which it draws from a single mainspring barrel. Needless to say, this is a technically impressive movement, which should be a continued source of fascination to gear-heads, or anyone who really appreciates mechanical integrity in a fine watch. The dial of this IWC timepiece is really beautiful as well with its elegant vertical layout, and silvery surface. Be aware, however, that the IWC Da Vinci Chronograph watch is not for those who don’t adore super-sized horology–the expansive tonneau case, in combination with the large IWC Pellaton movement ensures that this timepiece will completely cover all but the most Brobdingnagian of wrists.

The IWC Da Vinci watch collection has always had a sentimental place amongst watch collectors. That said, I don’t think the new model will take take long to find plenty of enthusiastic fans, since it possesses many fine qualities of its own. I don’t know how long IWC will continue to produce the original Da Vinci design, in light of the new model being introduced. However, it would be nice if IWC could somehow retain it, as this watch has a very symbolic significance to the modern history and innovative spirit of the company.

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 I was cruising through my regular stack of pop culture magazines this weekend when I opened up page 42 of Life & Style Magazine and saw a photo of the very beautiful Halle Berry on a recent shopping excursion.

In this picture Halle looked lovely as always, with shopping bags in tow. Of course I noticed something on Ms. Berry’s arm that looked vaguely familiar. I quickly fetched my reading glasses and noticed that dear Halle was wearing none other then a Franck Muller Casablanca (a 2852, for all you Muller junkies).

Whoa! (like Joey Lawrence used to say)

The Franck Muller Casablanca (2852) was the first non-Rolex watch I ever purchased, so I was thrilled when I saw her wearing it. Except for the fact that this wasn’t the first time I saw a FEMALE celebrity wearing this exact watch. Hmmmmm

In my defense, I bought this watch in 1998, before the “bigger is better” boom. Since then, I have gone on to purchase significantly larger watches such as the Girard-Perregaux WW.TC.

At 43.5mm the WW.TC is definitely more manly they the Casablanca 2852, yet I love wearing the Franck Muller that Halle Berry is now sporting.

Maybe its time to step up and buy the 5850. I supposed I can give the 2852 to my wife who also seems to love it as much as Halle Berry…..

Am I wearing a chicks watch?

Paul Morillo-

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