The IWC Watch Company seems to be making all the right moves these days. In the last 12 months IWC has had a watch product placement in 3 major motion pictures – making it one of the most popular brands in Hollywood.

Stars who are not IWC brand ambassadors have been flocking to IWC watches en mass. People like Eric Dane, John Mayer, Chris Tucker, Jason Statham, Jude Law, Orlando Bloom, and Kevin Dillon from Entourage have all publicly been photographed wearing IWC Watches – with the Big Pilot Watch being the favorite.

There is no doubt that IWC is on a roll – and at Lussori we just can’t seem to keep thier watches on the shelves. The IWC Big Pilot[tag] and and anything in the Portuguese collection generally sell the moment they enter our showroom. The [tag]IWC Aquatimer is also coming on as a popular sports watch.

The re-introduction of IWC’s Da Vinci watch collection was well received this year at SIHH and should be a sucessful collection for IWC just like the Aquatimer collection. At SIHH IWC rolled out the red carpet inviting some of the biggest stars in Europe and America to come preview their new cache of watches. In a matter of an hour, you saw Jean Reno, Zenedine Zedane, Boris Becker, Matthew Modine, Kevin Spacey and Cate Blanchett all sporting spiffy new IWC Watches.

About a month ago Tony Parker (AKA – the luckiest man in the world – married to Eva Longoria) was photographed wearing a brand spanking new IWC Da Vinci watch. I was about to report on it when I saw he recently had signed on to be one of IWC’s watch ambassadors.

As you can see our friends at the IWC seem to have some serious momentum. They are the darling of the glitterari and have multiple successful watch collections which is unheard of in this industry. Most Swiss watch companies usually have one collection that is hot at any given time. Congratulations to our friends at IWC who seem to be on top of the world these days.

Well Done.

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Between 1920 and 1940, the world of design was revolutionized by the Art Deco movement. Everything from architecture and painting to clothing and of course jewelry design was invigorated by the kinetic energy of the times. Modern technology allowed for unprecedented precision and the exactness of the angular geometric designs was magical.

During this design period, jewelers discovered new techniques for working with platinum. Along with this, new diamond cuts provided more variety to jewelry designs with stunning detail. These pieces often featured precise symmetrical patterns such as sunbursts accented with round and baguette diamonds.

Bold colors reigned supreme with black and white being de rigueur. Onyx paired with diamonds in platinum was one of the favorite combinations of materials and made for a dramatic look with maximum contrast.

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One of my all time favorite watch genres is that of the super-professional dive watch. While I don’t dive even recreationally, there is something inherently fascinating to me about these superbly engineered timekeeping instruments, which can descend to staggering depths, enduring with nonchalance the crushing water pressure which no human could survive. From famous classic divers like the Omega Ploprof and the Rolex Sea-Dweller to modern entries like the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II watch, uncompromising dive watches always get my attention.

With that preamble out of the way, I was pleased to see the addition of a new Bell & Ross dive timepiece collection at this year’s Basel Fair. The Bell & Ross BR 02 Instrument collection provides a worthy supplement to the enormously popular square BR 01 watches which have made Bell & Ross a household name with watch collectors. It’s got a very cool curved case shape that will offer something different for those who don’t necessarily want a square watch. And the deep sea emphasis is a nice contrast to the chronograph/aviation themes that dominate the BR 01 watch line.

Most importantly, these are SERIOUS dive timepieces. The flagship model, the BR 02 1000m watch, like its name suggests, is pressure tested for water resistant performance all the way to 1000 meters (3,300 feet). The dials have been designed to reflect pure tool watch sensibility, and have bold indications with generous amounts of superluminova; I fully expect this dial to be a virtual makeshift “flashlight” when things go dark. Naturally, divers will also appreciate the visibility. As is the case with many professional-grade dive watches, a helium release valve is present. The fact that this valve is static, and not dependent upon a crown, is a definite plus in my book, as it’s one less thing to fiddle with under stress. Perhaps inspired by IWC’s Aquatimer watch, Bell & Ross has used an internal rotating bezel, that is controlled by a dedicated crown. This is a nice touch, although some purist divers will always prefer an external bezel. I doubt most users will be deterred by this however, and will enjoy the engineering sophistication of this detail.

Bell & Ross also has the luxury dive watch angle has been well represented here, too. The BR 02 1000M watch is available in carbon-blackened steel with a pink gold bezel and crown guards, and then there is also the entirely golden BR 02 Pink Gold watch, with its case crafted from 18K pink gold, and a gorgeous dial in scintillating carbon fiber. Due to the 18K gold case, this latter model is “only” water resistant to 300 meters, but that seems like a reasonable technical concession to be able to wear such a beautiful and distinctive sports watch.

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This week I’ve had a chance to get some exposure to Milus –a watch brand I’ve not seen much of in the past, outside of a few obscure ads. While not an exceptionally old company, having been founded in 1919, Milus has a very appealing message, emphasizing quality, individuality and passion. “Just advertising”, you may say, but the product is exceptionally attractive across the entire model range. Under the stewardship of the Peace-Mark Group and CEO Jan Edocs, Milus is currently in the process of actively conveying their brand’s message to the luxury buying public. From what I have seen, they have a lot to offer.

A significant proportion of the Milus watch collection is aimed at women. Bearing exotic Greek or Persian titles that draw upon mythology or the constellations, the various models show off highly attractive rectangular, tonneau, and round forms which from all appearances seem to be exquisitely finished. Although many of these models are quartz, women who enjoy mechanical watchmaking are also treated to a self-winding chronograph as well as an extremely elegant round model with a stunning triple retrograde second display. I love this complication, and you really have to see it to appreciate how “cool” it looks in motion–the three 20-second sectors each count off their 1/3 of a minute, before passing it on to the next sector, in a clockwise motion. Retrograde seconds functions are always neat, but to have three operating in succession definitely makes for a watch that is unusual, captivating and a tasteful conversation piece.

Men have a great range of elegant choices in the Milus watch lineup, as well. The Zetios Classic timepiece, which recreates an early Milus wristwatch from 1919, is one of the most appealing three-handed watches I have seen in a long time. I’m also attracted by the Herios models, particularly the hand-wound model, and of course, the Herios TriRetrograde watch, which has the same retrograde seconds complication that I described from the ladies collection. The dial on the Herios TriRetrograde is fantastic, with it’s cotes de Geneve decorated dial mechanism, and skeletonized blued hands.

Milus also has a tantalizing range of bejewelled stunners, in their appropriately named Haute Joaillerie watch collection. Pure creations of luxury and beauty, these models show off extensive setting of diamonds and other precious gemstones. The Monocera watch has to be one of the most original feminine watch designs I have seen in some time, and appears as a one-piece bracelet in an elliptical shape, crowned with a polished sphere. It’s beautiful, particularly the version in 18K white gold with diamonds and sections of cobalt blue grand feu enamel. Also very unique is the Tarasea watch in 18K white gold and pave-set black and white diamonds. A wonderful ladies evening watch, it has a very intricate bracelet that has links which can be rotated, thanks to movable elements.

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Jake Gyllenhaal and his sister Maggie were born to a into a Hollywood family. Their dad was a director and mother was a screenwriter. These two were destined to be in front of the camera. Jake started acting at a young age playing Billy Crystal’s on-screen son Danny Robbin’s in City Slickers.

The supporting rolls soon started getting better and eventually Jake Gyllenhaal got lead rolls….. and his first two lead rolls couldn’t be any different. First he starred in the cult classic Donnie Darko. Soon after – he starred as Jimmy Livingston in the comedic cult classic Bubble Boy – a spoof on the made for TV movie “The Boy in the Plastic Bubble”

It wasn’t until he played “Jack Twist” (really….that was the characters name…) in critically acclaimed Brokeback Mountain that Jake became a household name. Brokeback Mountain won a ton of awards and proves that a really great actor can in fact make you believe gay cowboys really do exist (outside the Village People)…

After the movie was release, Jake had to fend off question regarding his sexual orientation. Luckily for Jake – the move was a huge success and he went from dating women like Rilo Kiley to women like Reese Witherspoon…..

Ahhh the spoils of success….

When it comes to fine timepieces, it seems Jake prefers his watches like his movie rolls – non traditional.

Seen here, Jake is wearing the very Avant Garde Bulgari Diagono Professional Chronograph – A great watch choice for confidant Hollywood leading man..

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Sometimes, it seems that the watch hobby gets so bogged down with the technical. Things like “Is a watch Manufacture or not Manufacture?” Does a Breguet hairspring perform better than a flat hairspring?” “How much more durable is a full balance bridge than a balance cock?” “How many complications does this watch have?” “Manual or automatic?” “Is this chronograph a column-wheel design?” And on and on.

It’s not that these types of technical questions and considerations are bad; after all, the amazing mechanical ingenuity of watches is a considerable part of what makes them so fascinating. I’m as guilty as anyone for using this rather cold yardstick, and probably more guilty than most. The point is, sometimes its good to enjoy watches for their pure aesthetic value; not what we see through the back, but rather, the first impression the watch gives when we look at it. Pick up a watch you’ve never seen before: quick now–does it move you, or not?

The Ulysse Nardin San Marco Cloisonne watches definitely move me. So much so, that I really could not care less that the watch uses a modified, rebuilt ETA base caliber, a fact that ordinarily would be an issue. (I respect the ETA calibers greatly, but as I’ve said in the past, if the movement isn’t made by the brand whose name is on the dial, I almost never consider owning) Last night, I had the privilege of attending a dinner in Seattle hosted by UlUlysse Nardin, and got to learn some fascinating things about their brand, and the many exciting things UN has done, and are planning for the future. Of course, some amazing watches were there for show, including the Freak DIAMonSIL and the Sonata Cathedral Dual Time, which are both about as brilliant as it gets, technically. Neither of these were my favorite, as you (or I) might expect.

The one piece that grabbed me by the collar was a platinum San Marco Cloisonne watch with a magnificent dial depicting the historic battle of Portobello. Truly a breathtaking work of art for the wrist; seeing it made me think about aspects outside of cold, hard gears, and think about the amazing craft of the enameler who created this amazing–and unique–creation. “Unique”: one hears that word a lot, and its often misapplied. Yet, here it is appropriate to say, for no two of these dials can ever be exactly alike due to the dauntingly difficult, meticulous process to create the cloisonne artwork.

It also tied in to what Patrick from Ulysse Nardin wisely commented to the group about there being so much more to the creation of beautiful watches than just the watchmaker who builds the movement. Indeed. The mechanism may be the heart, but the design, the dial, and the overall aesthetic concept is equally important to make a watch memorable in the long run.

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How you perceive a watch design can be an interesting thing: you see an advertisement of a certain timepiece in your favorite magazine, and you get all excited thinking perhaps, “This watch is awesome!  I want to get it!”.  So, you lustfully traipse down to your authorized retailer and prepare to exercise your well-worn credit card.  The sales person opens the case, hands you the watch, and…instant deflation.  In the metal, the watch didn’t hit you the same way.  Or maybe it did; the quality is there, the elements you loved in the ad still grab you, but you put it on your wrist to find that it just doesn’t look good “on you” personally.  

The same situation can also occur exactly in reverse.  Case in point: the Zenith Defy and Zenith Xtreme watches.  Now, I’d always admired Zenith and their interesting history, been fascinated with their legendary manufacture El Primero chronograph movement, and always considered their classic pieces like the Chronomaster GT Moonphase watch to be exceptionally beautiful and in the ranks of “all time great” timepieces–at any price point.  So, when the Defy and (particularly) the Defy Xtreme watch collections debuted, I found myself struggling to suppress the gag reflex.  ”What in the world?” I thought.  Surely this great brand didn’t have to stoop to producing such gimmicky-looking monstrosities, I opined.  

I’m happy to say that my hastily-created (and rather harsh) opinion has softened since then.  The difference?  The all important chance to actually see and handle the watches in person.  Having the chance to see a sampling of models in both collections recently, I can say that they were quite impressive, even attractive in their way, particularly the somewhat more conservative Defy lineup.  And as for the Defy Xtreme collection…well, while I might not go so far as to say that one of these is in my collecting future, I did gain a new respect for them, and think they are a highly viable option for the guy who enjoys extremely large sports watches.  The piece which really won me over was Zenith’s Chrono Aero El Primero watch, which I think looks great.  The multi-colored 30-minute totalizer on the dial of this piece reminds me of a particular version of the Zenith “Rainbow” El Primero, one of the now-discontinued Zenith chronograph variants that dedicated Zenith watch enthusiasts still talk about.  

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Despite Hugh Jackman’s big screen success in such films as the X-Men and Van Helsing – he generally lives his life outside the public eye. Jackman is a native of Australia and opts for living an understated life “down under” with his wife and kids rather than in the spotlight of Hollywood.

He must pick his movie rolls to complement his “below the radar” lifestyle since in his other blockbuster rolls you never actually see his face.

In Jackman’s other two blockbuster hits, he plays cartoon characters. In the summer kids favorite Happy Feet he plays “Memphis” as well as “Roddy” in Flushed away, two summer animated films that grossed a total of 250 million dollars.

It seems the understated Jackman likes his watches understated too. Seen here Hugh Jackman opts for the unassumingly elegant Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 watch.

We should see more of Hugh Jackman in the next few years as he is in pre-production with the film “Wolverine” due out in 2008.

Paul Morillo-

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I’d like to tip my hat to Blancpain for bringing out their newest interpretation of their dive watch classic—the Fifty Fathoms timepiece. Except that this “newest” interpretation is really a tribute to the OLD Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch, a divers tool which in horological lore is one of THE first two modern divers watches ever made. (The other being the Rolex Submariner) One of the great watches of the 1950’s, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch vies with the Rolex as being “THE” original divers watch, and was a favored companion of the legendary Jacques Cousteau.

I love the fine details of this “new-old” Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch, like the elegantly simple dial that is functional, easy to read in any light condition, yet exudes the classic “tool watch” aesthetic back from the bygone day when a mechanical dive watch was an essential part of a diver’s equipment. The highlight of the watch, however, is that stunning black rotating bezel, which is made from sapphire–it has an amazing lustre to it, while being a respectful homage to the original, right down to the diamond marker at the 12 o’clock position. The Frederic Piguet movement has been given a subtle, satinated finish (rather than decorated with Geneva stripes), that reflects the more sporty character of the watch; even though you won’t see this, since its covered by the engraved case-back, it’s still a really nice touch.

Of course, not ALL is the same. This Blancpain is much more finely finished, expensive and big (45mm) than the original Fifty Fathoms watch, and probably won’t be scraped against coral by many owners, even though it might be capable of such exploits. However, no matter how you might intend to wear it, if you are looking for a high luxury dive timepiece, this new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch is the cream of the crop.

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I’ve said it before, and I’m sure I’ll say it again – an engagement ring is likely the single most important piece of jewelry that a woman will ever own. That being said, it’s clearly important to make this purchase something meaningful and unique. Most women want a ring that not only displays an impressive diamond, but which also conveys a little (or perhaps a lot) of their own style and sensibility.

The singular beauty of this special ring will be the result of a combination of various aspects of the center diamond (shape, cut, color, clarity), and the particular design of the mounting which houses the center stone. Diamond engagement rings have been a standard for a very long time, and engagement ring styles have been many and varied – from the classic elegance of the Tiffany 4-prong solitaire to intricate and striking Art Deco designs onto the minimalist chic of a titanium tension set design, and onward towards a seemingly endless variation of styles.

Modern jewelry designers strive to offer rings which have classic and timeless beauty mixed with the latest trends – this is actually much more difficult than it may initially sound. One brand which manages to tow this line with grace and style is Uneek. Their diamond engagement ring designs always work to complement and enhance the natural beauty of the center diamond. Delicate rows of pave diamonds edged with precise milgraining – gorgeous natural fancy colored diamond accents – hand-crafted filigree designs – all of these elements combine to create an engagement ring which is clearly more than just the sum of its various parts.

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