Stainless steel and silver, titanium matched up with anthracite.” While not the most talked-about 2009 novelty from Audemars Piguet (an honor that would clearly go to the incredible Jules Audemars watch with the ultra high-frequency AP escapement), the addition of some exceptionally hot Royal Oak Offshore chronograph variants certainly spiced up Audemars Piguet’s legendary sports watch collection, and whetted my appetite for these definitive high luxury classics all over again.

Strategic accents of red added to a dial always seem to heighten the presence of an already superb sports chronograph.  The color has worked like magic for white gold models of the Rolex Daytona Cosmograph, and it’s equally effective with the 2009 stainless Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore chronograph variants.  Upon the silvery Mega Tapestry background the minute subdivisions, chronograph central seconds hand, and the subdial hands evoke action, speed and performance.  The red also treats the eye to another contrast–one just as intoxicating as the famous octagonal bezel and intricate finishes of the Royal Oak Offshore design.

The anthracite dial on the 2009 titanium Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is equally appealing and projects a cool austerity; the rich charcoal color is perfectly matched to the “instrument” presence of titanium.  I’d add to that that titanium has always been a fantastic material for the Royal Oak Offshore–the relationship between impressive size and feathery weight creates a contradictory drama that is nearly irresistible.  But, whichever metal you choose, you’ll get the superlatively fine Royal Oak bracelet, or the stylish “Hornback” croc strap–undoubtedly one of the most beautiful–and distinctive–exotic leather straps to ever adorn a fine watch.

2009 marks another milestone:  the complete integration of the in-house AP 3126 movement into the Offshore Chronograph model range.  While the Jaeger-LeCoultre 889 caliber has been an excellent and refined Offshore motor for years, the Manufacture cachet arguably adds an extra dose of prestige to Audemars Piguet’s mightiest sports watch.

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Choosing a favorite timepiece from the IWC Vintage Collection is a very pleasant problem, indeed–each of these ticking IWC treasures have unique charm, along with their own historical background and story.  One that I’m particularly fond of is the Portofino Hand- Wound, an homage to IWC Schaffhausen’s much-revered Ref. 5251–a wristwatch with a vintage pocket watch caliber that the brand produced in small series through the late 1990s.  Collectors still rave about the IWC 5251 Portofino; it was impressively large–even by modern standards–and presented a delightful horizontally-aligned moon phase indicator and subsidiary seconds subdial.  Classical yet slightly idiosyncratic, this watch was a veritable dream for lovers of elegance and fine mechanical movements.

When the new Vintage Portofino Hand-Wound watch made its debut in 2008, IWC press material claimed the “charming flaw” of the 5251’s moon phase and sub seconds horizontal layout had been corrected.  While I never understood where IWC was going with this (since I and many others consider the Ref. 5251 as an amazing and unforgettably lovely watch), I will nonetheless concede that the vertical layout is certainly attractive–even if it does lack the distinctiveness its predecessor possessed.

The in-house manufactured IWC caliber with the historical “Jones” fine adjustment index is another delight of the IWC Vintage Portofino Hand-Wound watch, and will keep owners undecided about whether the front or back of their timepiece is more appealing.  Any way you cut it, this Vintage Portofino provides an intoxicating mixture of elegance and fine watchmaking skill, all the while shining a bright light on past IWC horological achievements.

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We all know who the celebrity wristwatch junkies are -  and we don’t really have to name them. But when you start to think about them – you start to see some predictable traits. First and foremost – when it comes to their buying habits – they really don’t really branch out a whole lot:

- Sylvester Stallone: Panerai
- John Mayer: Mostly IWC & Rollers
- Jay-Z: Loads of Audemars Piguet
- Elton John: Tons of Franck Muller

By looking at the above list you will notice that there is another very predicable trait -  Its a male dominated hobby (or sickness – depending how you look at it).

Seriously… how many celebrity female watch collectors can you name? And by collectors, I simply mean owning more then ONE watch (a very liberal definition by most standards).

Generally speaking when I see a photo of a female celeb wearing a watch – I immediately put them on my celebrity “watch radar” – and I watch to see if they branch out.  The next time I see a photo of them wearing wearing a watch -  it is generally the same piece…

Thankfully, there are a few female celebrities who are leading the charge when it comes to watch collecting. One of which is the very talented Mary J. Blige – who is credited with being one of the main artist who truly fused Hip-Hop and R&B – and has won an astonishing nine Grammy Awards.

In the past I have reported that Mary J was photographed wearing a Audemars Piguet Ladies Royal Oak. So when I found this photo of her I was amazed to see something very different. If you look closely in this photo, you will see that Mary is wearing a Franck Muller Cintree Curvex ladies watch. I can’t wait to see what she is wearing next!

Go on Mary!

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With such a suavely elegant profile and stylish good looks, it’s no surprise that women gravitate strongly to the Girard-Perregaux Richeville Lady watch collection.  Any time I’ve had the opportunity to spend time with Lussori clients, working patiently through the various fine brands, these Girard-Perregaux timepieces invariably evoke a very positive response. Often, ladies want to try these on, and not infrequently–they don’t want to take them off!

Great watch designs like the Girard-Perregaux Richeville Lady appeal on a visceral level–you don’t sit down with pen and paper, add up the various features and intellectually analyze why you are drawn to them.  But, were I to engage in such a silly exercise, I’d say the lovely Art Deco-era tonneau form is a big part of the subliminal attraction; the distinctive elongation of the lugs is ideal for the setting of diamonds, and it flatters the feminine wrist perfectly.  What is more, this graceful shape compliments casual and formal modes of attire with equal panache.

Within the basic framework, too, there is a great abundance of tempting choices.  18K gold or stainless steel on straps or bracelet, optional round brilliant diamonds, and dials in a broad array of colors that range from classic Roman numerals to dreamy and playful Arabic figures enable each woman to choose the perfect expression of this superbly versatile and attractive Girard-Perregaux timepiece.

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The Franck Muller Mariner Chronograph watches are a great addition to a diverse and expressive collection of fine timepieces.  Without getting away from the impeccably elegant curvex tonneau form of the Casablanca line, the designers of the house managed to create some sophisticated sporty flavor that works extremely well for casual wear.

This is especially so in the daring PVD black stainless steel version of the Mariner Chronograph, where the blue compass and wind rose accents on the dial jump out brilliantly against the sober all-black color scheme.  As always, the playful exploded hour markers on the
technical (but not overly crowded) dials present an Art Deco charm that all but immediately defines the watch as a creation of Franck Muller.  For the most enthusiastic fans of Franck Muller watches, such a potent identity is among the many irresistibles of the brand.

Certainly the most opulent of the Mariner Chronograph models is the gorgeous rose gold version.  The warm hue of this precious metal creates a provocative contrast with the rubber strap and black crown and chronograph pushers.  As it does with the black PVD stainless steel version, the blue dial accents are real eye-catchers.  Against the rose gold, however, the brilliant blue evokes a powerful sense of luxury and regality.

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