While the Monterey Peninsula Auto Week is rightly celebrated by lovers of exceptional automobiles, its also a great opportunity for those who covet the finest luxury watches. That’s because those who have been know that Lussori goes all out each year to present nothing less than the very best selection of extraordinary watches and jewelry.  Keeping up with the cornucopia of horological wonders was, as always, a bit of a dizzying experience.  For me, this year’s event was a chance to get acquainted with some stellar new luxury watch brands, and deepen my appreciation of marques I already know and love.  Here are just a few impressions I took away this year:

Working with the Franc Vila watch line was gratifying.  Impressively crafted and unquestionably different in appearance than any other watch on the market, they offer a real choice for those whose collections lean heavily to the classical.  The tourbillons were certainly impressive, but my favorites in Franc Vila were actually the less pricey complications, including the annual calendar with chronograph, and the complete calendar with moon phases.

Bovet watches…so nice.  These are extraordinary, as you might have guessed from the information presented in the blog just below.  Getting to experience the full collection in the metal, including the exceptionally exclusive Dimier Recitals was inspiring; these watches are a pleasing reminder that extensive hand craftsmanship is indeed alive and well in today’s world of disposables and fast food.  I particularly loved the Bovet Fleurier Jump Hour in its many lovely forms, and some of the watches with hand-painted or cloisonne dials simply blew me away.  To see is to believe, as they say.
What’s not to love about the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges?  The only thing better than experiencing one, is experiencing THREE (including a version in the Vintage 1945 format).  This was a real treat and confirmed for me that this is indeed one of the most exquisite tourbillon wristwatches in existence.

Glashutte Original always impresses me.  It was great to be able to closely examine the Senator Meissen watch with its lovely porcelain dial, and also get to have some one-on-one with the Senator Rattrapante, whose chronograph movement is right up there with the A. Lange & Sohne Datograph in intricacy and beauty.

The Ulysse Nardin display case was an absolute treasure chest…among the many delights included the Sonata watch in several colors of gold, the amazing Forgerons Minute Repeater (which I naturally had to chime on several occasions over the week), and the full Trilogy of astronomical watches, including the world’s last unsold yellow gold Astrolabium Galileo Galilei!

My love for Audemars Piguet was also deepened, thanks to an open-worked Jules Audemars minute repeater whose chimes were oh-so-fine; the platinum Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with a skeleton movement was also a show stopper.  My rabid appreciation for the superb craft of Chopard’s manufacture L.U.C watches was reinforced as well, after being able to spend some time with several of the L.U.C. “Quattro” Tourbillons, including an absolutely ravishing 18K rose gold specimen with a silvered guilloche dial.  Last but far from least, the Harry Winston Tourbillon Glissiere was nothing short of phenomenal…the sheer heft of its massive rose gold case was dwarfed only by the wonder generated by its incredible tourbillon movement with sliding platinum winding weights.  I simply couldn’t put it down.

I could go on and on, as each case held so many wonderful things (and I don’t mean to leave any brand out!) but I’ve rambled far too long as it is.  If you were in the Lussori showroom last week, you know of what I speak; if not, please come next year.  I assure you that you’ll not be disappointed!

The addition of Bovet watches to Lussori’s superb collection of luxury timepiece brands should be a real delight for those whose tastes are oriented to the finest in haute horlogerie.  Bovet watches first made a name for themselves in the 19th century, when Edouard Bovet succeeded in titillating the exclusive tastes of the Chinese Imperial family with his exceptional timepieces, which emphasized exceptionally lavish decorative details, including fine enamel work, engraved movements, and cases set with precious gemstones and pearls; Bovet was also the first maker to fit transparent windows in watches, to emphasize the beauty of finely decorated watch mechanisms.  As a fascinating footnote to history, the renown of Bovet watches within China became so great that they actually became an established form of currency!

Bovet’s owner Pascal Raffy has done a fabulous job to ensure that the modern Bovet watch collection captures the extraordinary hand-craftsmanship of original 19th century Bovets.  Apart from their charming and unmistakable style, which evokes pocket watch design, Bovet timepieces place an emphasis on artistic adornment which is scarcely matched by anyone within the luxury watch industry today.  At Bovet, rarities such as miniature enamel painting, pearl-setting, and elaborate fleurisanne-style engraving live on, adding a great deal of beauty to watches that are at least as much an expression of art as they are an implement to tell the time.

Most importantly, this rare emphasis on aesthetic perfection serves to highlight the finest in mechanical watchmaking.  Bovet presents a number of the most cherished complications, which range from the delightful jumping hour and classical perpetual calendar to wondrous minute repeaters and tourbillons–the summit of the watchmaker’s craft.  Even more impressive, Bovet has ensured the continuity and exclusivity of its horological creativity through the formation of a manufacturing facility in picturesque Fleurier, where it can create and design its own proprietary movements.

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A few weeks ago the chronologically challenged Republican Presidential hopeful John McCain was comparing the popularity of his Democratic competitor Barack Obama with that of Paris Hilton and Britney Spears, inferring that pop culture icons are unimportant in modern society…

Ironically, a few days later his daughter Meghan McCain, a budding political blogger who presumably uses her blog to attract younger voters for “Dad” was seen “lunching” in LA at the ultra popular restaurant The Ivy with none other then the infamous Heidi Montag from the pseudo reality show “The Hills”.

So what does this blog have to do with watches you may ask?

Well….either blogging has started to pay a ton of money (and I’m still waiting…) or Presidential hopeful John McCain is dropping HUGE sacks of money on Christmas and birthday presents for his kids.

If you look closely at McCain’s early twenties daughter you will noticed that she is wearing a true piece of horology. The watch on her wrist is a Limited Edition Glycine Lagunare Chronometer. This is a true Swiss timepice with a limited production of only 200 pieces..

Hey Mr. McCain, feel like adopting another kid in his mid to late 30’s?

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There are many perks of marrying a Spice Girl. For starters - you get to marry a Spice Girl! Does it get any better then that? Then - your summer vacations that USED TO take place at 3-star Clarion Cabo San Lucas hotels are now 3 week yacht based vacations in Saint Tropez. Oh the life of Stephen Belafonte…

Yes, he used to be a music producer..or still is… sorry Stephen. But lets face it - keeping Scary Spice happy is a full time job. Of course - there are a few complications. Scary has two children from two previous relationships…One being Eddie Murphy and the other, a little know dancer named Jimmy Gulzar. So ya gotta get used to dealing with Eddie Murphy for the rest of your marriage.

At least when Christmas comes along Stephen doesn’t get the typical Old Navy/Marks & Spencer’s sports fleece. No not this guy. If you look closely at Stephen’s wrist, you will notice that Mr. Scary Spice is wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rose Gold Rubber Clad watch. A watch ANY horological enthusiast would be thrilled to see under his or her Christmas tree…

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Franck Muller watches provided me with some of my earliest introductions to the world of artistic and extremely complex watchmaking.  Back in early 1997, I had somehow managed to get my hands on a dog-eared and well-worn copy of an International Watches catalog for 1996, and it absolutely blew me away (the contents of the entire catalog).  It took my appreciation of timepieces, which before had been confined primary to more publicly famous brands such as Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer and perhaps Patek Philippe, to an entirely different level.  With the hundreds of full color photographs before me, a whole new world opened up, and I found myself transformed virtually overnight from someone who thought watches was highly interesting to well…a full-bore watch nut!
The collections of Franck Muller were certainly one of the most impressive to me, even from the first flip of the page.  As I struggled to wrap my head around the functions of some of the amazingly complex Franck Muller watches (such as the “Calibro 1994″) I became thoroughly enraptured with the artistry and human commitment necessary to create watches of this elite level.  Muller’s story was no less impressive–here was a fellow who entered the prestigious Geneva School of Watchmaking at a just 15 years of age, winning top honors in his class within a short period of time before going on to make a name for himself in complicated watch restoration under watchmaking legend Svend Andersen, and eventually turning things upside down with some absolutely outrageous timepieces of his own—including what was at one point the most complex wristwatch in the world! (which as a side note, was later modified into an even more extraordinary piece–the subject for a story all its own.)

I also credit Franck Muller watches with providing a real “wake up call” as to how stylish watchmaking could be.  Collections such as the famed “Cintree Curvex”, with its sweeping curves and expressive dials showed me that round cases were but the tip of the design iceberg.  While I would soon come to learn these were based on historical designs that came decades before, I remain just as impressed today with how beautiful Franck Muller watches are, to say nothing of the amazing degree of mechanical artistry many of them possess.

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The number of watches it takes to comprise a collection is a topic which sways mightily in the wind of opinion. Ultimately though, none of that matters–the simple truth is: the right amount is that which satisfies you. Whether 1, 100, or 1,000 only you know when you have enough ticking treasures on your wrist, or in your safe. For the person who wants some advice on putting together a basic group though, I do have a few thoughts on where to start:

I. The Daily Driver

This is the watch that you would take with you if you had to grab something on the go, and not worry about it. Whether you go with self-winding or quartz, time only or chronograph, it should be water resistant, and durable, as well as something you really, really like–because this is one you wear often, especially when you are engaged in your favorite activities. What are some examples? The Omega Seamaster 300M, IWC’s Aquatimer Automatic or Chronograph, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk, any stainless steel Rolex Oyster, and many Bell & Ross models. Those with a generous budget and a preference for the bold will find the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph an “ultimate”.

II. Casual Elegance

This timepiece bridges the gap between a pure dress watch, and one which is overtly casual. Overall, this is probably my favorite category, because truly, such a watch can just about do it all, although the fine finishing on watches in this category don’t lend themselves aesthetically to the real rough treatment. My personal loves here are the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus line. Also superb is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Evo3 series, another distinguished example of the genre. The refined Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch is right at home here, as well.

III. Formal

The archetypal dress watch, on a fine leather strap, ideally on the slender side. The Omega DeVille collection has some very nice choices, and IWC offers its elegant Portofino. Movement elitists (guilty as charged) will delight in the Piaget Altiplano, Blancpain’s wonderfully slim Villeret line, the Chopard L.U.C Extra Plate, Girard-Perregaux’s 1966 watch, and the stylish Glashutte Original Senator Sixties models.

Why not have a fourth category dedicated to complications? Well, the reason I didn’t bother is this: various complications from basics like power reserve and chronograph up to complex perpetual calendars and tourbillons can be found in each of the three groups, particularly the latter two. If you have a hankering for mechanical complications, your desires can certainly be satisfied in any one of these categories. And remember, this list is just a starting point to put together a watch rotation you will find plenty of occasions to wear. Use your imagination, be true to your preferences (as opposed to peer pressure) and you will be able to create a collection that satisfies over the long term.

Technorati Tags: Omega Seamaster, Rolex Oyster, Patek Philippe, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

Maybe he just found out that his Hummer’s gets less 10 miles to a gallon? Maybe he just found out that Hummers emit 3 times more carbon dioxide then an average car? Who knows…

But when California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger ran for the office a few years ago, he said he was committed to clean air. He talked about cutting air pollution in half and reduce energy use by 20%  - which explains his personal collection of 5+ Hummers that he is seen driving around in.

Ease up, Arnie supporters….I am just teasing. Whether or not he personally wants to help the environment is his prerogative. There are enough tree hugging Prius drivers to help Ca-lee-forn-ya get to the 20% number.

At least he has a funky look going on - with his bright red Captain Kangaroo pants accessorized with a yellow and red hawaiian shirt. His outfit is perfectly finished with tan leisure loafers and big hulking U-Boat watch which seems to be the Governators watch of choice these days.

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With the recent passing of Corum Chairman Severin Wunderman, a man as renowned for his human qualities as his skill and dynamism as abusinessman, I found myself contemplating the unique creativity of many of the Corum watch collections. Certainly, the input of Severin himself played a major role in the creation of many of these memorable Corum watches–from eyebrow-raising Bubble timepiece such as the diabolically charming Baron Samedi or the notorious “Lucifer Bubble”, to some of the dazzling Golden Bridge variants, the viewer was always presented with something extremely unusual, beautiful, comical and sometimes even slightly macabre. Love them or loathe them, these are watches that are not easy to forget. As is the case with all art, you are forced to react in some way, and maybe question a few things along the way.

Among my favorite modern Corum watches, are the Classical Vanitas series, which stand out with their beautiful marquetry dials. Each of these dials are individually created by patient craftsmen who meticulously piece intricately cut segments of marble, precious stone, and mother of pearl together to form striking artworks. With their unique human element, and reflective themes reminding the viewer that life is indeed fleeting, the Vanitas watches are fine examples of the expressive qualities that define the Corum brand, as well as an ongoing tribute to the memory of Mr. Wunderman.

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So, I recently splurged and purchased my self an Audemars Piguet Rose Gold Rubber Clad Offshore! Needless to say I LOVE IT, and have been wearing it regularly in the store and out and about on my days off.

I am a huge Audemars Piguet fan and have been for many years now and do not expect the ether to wear off any time soon. Now comes my disenchantment…not for the timepiece but rather the lack of Horological knowledge I am seeing in “collectors” as of late.

At first I thought it was comical that 3 out of 4 “collectors” who came into the store commented on the beautiful Hublot Big Bang I was wearing, so for two weeks I started keeping track of how many people would actually get it right, any guesses? Still 3 out of 4…. and we are an Authorized Audemars Piguet retailer with the collection front and center in the store.

As funny as it may sound, it just solidifies my notion that many watch collectors are afraid to venture off on their own and do some serious homework in order to better educate themselves prior to jumping into the world of Fine Timepieces.

This Horological world we live in today is more exciting than it ever has been!! There are so many choices out there now that you can’t help but want to uncover layer after layer of what’s new and cutting edge. While the Hublot is a good looking timepiece, I still prefer the original timepiece Hublot took it’s inspiration from…..the Audemars Piguet Offshore.

-John Bassett

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In October, Bell & Ross watch fanatics will have a chance to enrich their obsession just a bit more. Following on the established and smashingly successful BR Instrument collection, Bell & Ross has taken a turn in more subtle directions with the new BRS timepieces.

Showing off a strikingly handsome case made from black or white ceramic, the Bell & Ross BRS is noticeably thinner than other BR Instrument timepieces, a factor which can be attributed to the use of a manually wound movement–a first for this collection.  The BRS is also considerably smaller at 39mm, which qualifies it as either a moderately sized men’s watch, or an over-sized ladies watch, depending upon who you ask.

Ultimately, the Bell & Ross BRS watches should have true unisex appeal; the diamond-set white versions should be particularly fashionable for women, while the basic black ceramic model will draw attention from men who enjoy the purposeful Bell & Ross aesthetics but feel a bit “carpally challenged” by the company’s 46mm BR 01 variants.  With its classic, uncluttered dial and stylish ceramic case the BRS should shape up to be another smash hit for Bell & Ross founder Carlos Rosillo and his team in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

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